Taking care of your car maintenance can be very rewarding if done properly so here's a list of seven top tips that can help you save money on your car parts and service.
1. A well tuned car can have a fuel consumption from 25% to 33% lower than a poorly tuned car making a tune-up cheaper than driving without it, tuning your car for better performance can save you between ${
150 and $300 per year.
2. Regardless of the number of miles the manual recommends a oil change and filter change you should change them every 3,000 miles. This is one of the most important factors in your engine's life since it's going to prolong your engine's life and you're going to save on engine car parts. The potential savings are $500 to $3000.
3. Dirty air filter means more gasoline used and reduces the engine's life so you should check it regularly, maybe monthly. The air filter can be cleaned by blowing it with a hose or can be replaced. You can save about $130 per year..
4. Using steel-belted radial tires can increase the number of miles you make per year by up to 10%, saving this way about $130 per year.
5. Most cars, don't work better on premium gas, so, unless your car is pinging or knocking you shouldn't use higher octane gas. If your car doesn't have a high performance engine, using the gas that best suits your car's engine can save you $200 to $400 per year.
6. Having under inflated tires makes your engine burn about 6% more gas so make sure you check your tire pressure regularly.
7. If your tires are improperly balanced the tread on them will be destroyed. In addition, your suspension and shock absorbers can be damaged leading to more expense on car parts and service. Balancing your tires once a year can add thousands of miles to their life.
Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com
Friday, 8 May 2009
Friday, 24 April 2009
Buying a Car at Auction
Perhaps the most risky way to acquire a used car. Whether you buy privately, or from a car dealer there is no guarantee that you will pay the bottom line price. To do that you would have to buy at an auction. The trouble is, things happen fast at auction, very fast indeed. If you miss one lot, another one will be along in a minute and then another and then another.Not surprisingly auctions are not for everyone. However those who are prepared to do some research and use their common sense they can buy a used car at a wholesale price. That is reason enough to consider making a bid at an auction.The way auctions operateIt is very simple. Vehicles are sold on behalf of the owners, who complete a legally binding form (the Entry Form) which attests to the vehicle's age, mileage and condition. Usually a reserve value is set, which is the lowest figure the seller will accept - the auctioneers cannot sell below this value. Auctions are really the stock market of the used car industry.Often vehicles are categorised;there may be executive and prestige sales, late year and low mileage.On the sale day itself all the vehicles will be lined up by lot order in their correct sale section ready to be sold and can be displayed under cover in well-lit viewing areas or outside. A sale catalogue on the morning of the sale can be used by buyers to help them locate potential purchases. Viewing is normally from 9.00 am, with sales starting at 10.00am on the busiest days. However there are evening and Saturday sales aimed more at the private buyer with cheaper cars although the larger number of buyers can push up prices.When the sale starts vehicles are driven into the auction hall in lot order. The car on sale stops in front of the rostrum and the auctioneer describes it to the buyers. Listen closely to what the auctioneer says: that description is legally binding. They could be warranting the mileage, mentioning any major mechanical faults, the existence of a service history, MOT or whether there is a reserve price.Then the auctioneer will ask for a starting bid on the car. The bidding increments are controlled by the auctioneer reflecting the interest from the auction floor. Typically bidding is done in $100 increments or less (sometimes as low as $10), but it is not unusual for $200, $5,000, or even $1,000 bids on high value cars. Don't worry about sneezing, or scratching your itchy nose. There are all sorts of apocryphal stories of people buying cars by mistake, but in today's professional market, that is never going to happen. Just bid clearly by raising your hand.
What cars go to auction?Just in case you wondered, cars come from either the general public, dealers, company fleets, local authorities or finance companies. The dealers dispose of cars because it is an unsuitable part exchange as it is too old, or just the wrong make. Also the car could be too expensive to put right. Quite simply the car may have been stuck on their forecourt without finding a buyer and the dealer would rather have money in the bank than a depreciating hulk in the showroom.It is much rarer to find ordinary members of the public putting their cars through the auction but they will often do so either because they don't want the hassle of selling privately, or that it has been advertised without finding a seller. Again, there may be something wrong with the car that is uneconomic to put right, or won't show up on its brief drive through the auction ring. That is why you need to be so careful.Another group of vehicles are those classed as stolen/recovered and sold by finance or insurance companies. Often they are damaged, but they can be in perfect condition too. Other sources of auction fodder are the fleet and company cars which are usually no more than two or three years old, often with a high mileage but backed up by a full service history. Vehicles also come from utility companies or the Police. They may have lead a hard life but once again maintenance has usually been a priority.
Choose your auctionFind your auction by looking in the phine books - there may well be more than you imagined. Even the classified section of your local paper. Your first visit must always be your research trip. Leave all your money at home and just watch what goes on. It may frighten you off and for some that might be a good thing. Auctions aren't for nervous types.Get a copy of the Conditions of Sale and Entry and any other information issued by the auctioneers. You will find out what rights you do and don't have especially as rules vary between auction companies.Take a price guide with you which you can buy in the newsagent so that you can see what the vehicles are making compared to the wholesale trade, private or dealer price. Ideally it will be around the trade valuation. But always remembers these guides are just that, guides and some models are more in demand than others.Also private buyers can push prices beyond what a dealer would be prepared to pay. Condition is vital and ultimately a car at auction and anywhere else for that matter is only worth what someone is prepared to pay.
Auction language explainedBefore the sale starts listen carefully to what the auctioneer says and also read any stickers on the car windows carefully.'Without reserve' means that the car will be sold to the highest bidder.'Reserve' is the minimum the seller will want for the car, not usually revealed before sale, unless it has been entered previously and didn't sell. Sometimes the auctioneer may give a clue to the reserve.'As seen' is what you see you get, including all the faults. Some cars fall into this category merely because of the seller's policy.'All good', 'on description' or 'no major mechanical defects' sounds promising, but it only applies to the major components. So although the engine, gearbox, axles, steering, suspension and brakes may be fine, instruments, electrics, tyres and trim may be broken or damaged. Some auctions may offer an insurance backed warranty to cover this.'Warranted all good' actually guarantees that the car is as described with no major mechanical faults, so a warranted mileage and service history. A successful bidder can therefore reject a car if it is not up to these standards.'Specified faults' can be underplayed so a phrase such as 'worn gearbox' could actually mean that it is permanently stuck in second. It is worth bearing in mind that an auctioneer is acting as an agent for the seller and may only know as much about the car as they have been told.
Auction Survival Kit - what to take with you Cash: the minimum amount required to pay a deposit, read the conditions of entry to find out how much.Friend: to stop you making any rash bids, or buying something that you don't need. They can also drive you to the auction so you don't have to pay a delivery charge or make a return visit.Old clothes: after all you will be crawling around getting a closer look won't you? Torch: All the better to look into those nooks and crannies.Magnet: When in doubt about filler rely on the old fridge magnet test. Price guide: Newsagent price guides do what they say.Tool kit/gallon of petrol to help you get the car you bid for home. Don't carry the petrol can around with you.
Buy a catalogueThe cars will be parked together and on the windscreen will be a lot number. This gives some indication of the running order, but don't rely on it. There may also be some information about the car such as make, model, mileage and perhaps a brief engineer's assessment, which may not be binding anyway. Watch out for 'sold as seen' and 'recorded on Vcar register'. Don't pin all your hopes on one lot. It could be withdrawn, you might change your mind, or you might not bid enough to buy it, so draw up a shortlist of lots.
Checking the carThere isn't a lot that you can check. The cars are usually parked so close together that they will restrict your view and mostly they will be locked and won't be started until a few minutes before they go into the auction hall.
Tyres - for their condition tread and brand. Entry form on windscreen - read carefully for major faults warranties and mileage.Lot number - so you know roughly where it will appear in the sale.Bodywork - look for rust, poor repairs and panel alignment.Trim - anything from a cracked windscreen to missing or damaged accessories. Interior - look for wear and tear, best done when the car is in the auction hall. Engine - are there oil leaks where it is parked? Be there when it is started so that you can check for smoke and listen for noises. The auction driver will usually let you pop the bonnet when it is in the auction hall.
How much to bid? Now is the time to set your budget. Look at the guide trade price and bear in mind what similar vehicles made at the previous sales you attended. The questions are what can you afford and more importantly what are you prepared to pay? Obviously there is no point bidding up to what a main dealer would charge for a car with a year's warranty.
Auction Action: our 10 point bidding plan 1. Before your lot is called position yourself near the car you want. Use your friends if the lots you are after are close together.2. Watch the car being started. Does the oil light go on and off quickly? Does it start first time. Does the engine sound healthy? Are there any strange noises. Is there thick black smoke from the exhaust?3. When driven to the auction hall it will join a short queue of cars. Now is your chance to take a good look inside. Maybe ask the driver to pop the bonnet. Make your decision now, do you want to bid for this car?4. If you want to bid place yourself in view of the auctioneer and listen. What they say now is crucial. Listen out for the good points like a warranty and guaranteed mileage and also any negative ones like 'gearbox trouble'.5. Now programme yourself. What is your budget and if you have a friend with you remind them to stop you bidding above that.6. The auctioneer suggests an opening bid and usually it is an optimistically high figure. Don't get sucked in too early. Wait and see what happens.7. When you do bid raise your arm clearly and confidently. Be aware of the margin of the bid: is it $50, $100, or $00 or more? If you want to make your bid less tell the auctioneer. Don't worry if the auctioneer ignores your bid because they usually concentrate only on two bids at a time.8. If you seem to be bidding against someone you can't see, it is permissible for the auctioneer subject to their company rules, to take 'bids off the wall'. They do this to get closer to the reserve price. So don't get carried away and exceed your bidding budget.9. If you drop out of the bidding a shake of the head is sufficient to indicate this to the auctioneer.10. If your bid is successful you will be required to pay an immediate deposit, usually 10% or a fixed sum in cash to the rostrum clerk.
After the sale The balance will need to be paid within a short period usually with 24 hours, or sometimes before the auction closes, by cash, banker's draft or credit/debit card. You may also have to pay an indemnity fee on a sliding scale according to the cost of the vehicle which insures you against the car being stolen an insurance write off, or still on finance. Bear in mind that if you delay in paying the full amount you will probably be charged storage fees, so don't dally.If your bid was successful but it does not exceed the reserve figure set by the seller, the auctioneers will contact them to find out if they will accept less. In the meantime don't bid for another car or you might end up with two!Should the seller make a counter offer the decision is yours, but don't exceed your budget, or pay more than you think it is actually worth.If you have a bought a vehicle that came with a trial, in most cases you will only have one hour after payment to drive the car and find a serious fault. If a car is sold on an independent engineer's report (attached to the windscreen), or 'with no major mechanical faults' then that is exactly how you should expect the car to be. Remember that it is up to you to check the car's overall exterior condition - paintwork, trim, tyres and the interior, seats and carpets - for example - prior to sale. All these factors are 'sold as seen'. CollectionOnce you have paid, the office should be able to give you all the relevant paperwork,service history and registration details, plus a radio front, or anything else removed from the vehicle for security reasons.Before you drive off though make sure that your insurer will cover you. Also remember that whatever the vehicle inspection may say the vehicle has to be roadworthy. One balding tire or a dodgy wiper blade is illegal and ought to be fixed. It is not unknown for the police to lie in wait at the exit of auctions and book unroadworthy vehicles.
When you get the car home sort out any problems as a precaution and unless there is any evidence that it has been done recently you should have the car serviced.
Dave Burton
What cars go to auction?Just in case you wondered, cars come from either the general public, dealers, company fleets, local authorities or finance companies. The dealers dispose of cars because it is an unsuitable part exchange as it is too old, or just the wrong make. Also the car could be too expensive to put right. Quite simply the car may have been stuck on their forecourt without finding a buyer and the dealer would rather have money in the bank than a depreciating hulk in the showroom.It is much rarer to find ordinary members of the public putting their cars through the auction but they will often do so either because they don't want the hassle of selling privately, or that it has been advertised without finding a seller. Again, there may be something wrong with the car that is uneconomic to put right, or won't show up on its brief drive through the auction ring. That is why you need to be so careful.Another group of vehicles are those classed as stolen/recovered and sold by finance or insurance companies. Often they are damaged, but they can be in perfect condition too. Other sources of auction fodder are the fleet and company cars which are usually no more than two or three years old, often with a high mileage but backed up by a full service history. Vehicles also come from utility companies or the Police. They may have lead a hard life but once again maintenance has usually been a priority.
Choose your auctionFind your auction by looking in the phine books - there may well be more than you imagined. Even the classified section of your local paper. Your first visit must always be your research trip. Leave all your money at home and just watch what goes on. It may frighten you off and for some that might be a good thing. Auctions aren't for nervous types.Get a copy of the Conditions of Sale and Entry and any other information issued by the auctioneers. You will find out what rights you do and don't have especially as rules vary between auction companies.Take a price guide with you which you can buy in the newsagent so that you can see what the vehicles are making compared to the wholesale trade, private or dealer price. Ideally it will be around the trade valuation. But always remembers these guides are just that, guides and some models are more in demand than others.Also private buyers can push prices beyond what a dealer would be prepared to pay. Condition is vital and ultimately a car at auction and anywhere else for that matter is only worth what someone is prepared to pay.
Auction language explainedBefore the sale starts listen carefully to what the auctioneer says and also read any stickers on the car windows carefully.'Without reserve' means that the car will be sold to the highest bidder.'Reserve' is the minimum the seller will want for the car, not usually revealed before sale, unless it has been entered previously and didn't sell. Sometimes the auctioneer may give a clue to the reserve.'As seen' is what you see you get, including all the faults. Some cars fall into this category merely because of the seller's policy.'All good', 'on description' or 'no major mechanical defects' sounds promising, but it only applies to the major components. So although the engine, gearbox, axles, steering, suspension and brakes may be fine, instruments, electrics, tyres and trim may be broken or damaged. Some auctions may offer an insurance backed warranty to cover this.'Warranted all good' actually guarantees that the car is as described with no major mechanical faults, so a warranted mileage and service history. A successful bidder can therefore reject a car if it is not up to these standards.'Specified faults' can be underplayed so a phrase such as 'worn gearbox' could actually mean that it is permanently stuck in second. It is worth bearing in mind that an auctioneer is acting as an agent for the seller and may only know as much about the car as they have been told.
Auction Survival Kit - what to take with you Cash: the minimum amount required to pay a deposit, read the conditions of entry to find out how much.Friend: to stop you making any rash bids, or buying something that you don't need. They can also drive you to the auction so you don't have to pay a delivery charge or make a return visit.Old clothes: after all you will be crawling around getting a closer look won't you? Torch: All the better to look into those nooks and crannies.Magnet: When in doubt about filler rely on the old fridge magnet test. Price guide: Newsagent price guides do what they say.Tool kit/gallon of petrol to help you get the car you bid for home. Don't carry the petrol can around with you.
Buy a catalogueThe cars will be parked together and on the windscreen will be a lot number. This gives some indication of the running order, but don't rely on it. There may also be some information about the car such as make, model, mileage and perhaps a brief engineer's assessment, which may not be binding anyway. Watch out for 'sold as seen' and 'recorded on Vcar register'. Don't pin all your hopes on one lot. It could be withdrawn, you might change your mind, or you might not bid enough to buy it, so draw up a shortlist of lots.
Checking the carThere isn't a lot that you can check. The cars are usually parked so close together that they will restrict your view and mostly they will be locked and won't be started until a few minutes before they go into the auction hall.
Tyres - for their condition tread and brand. Entry form on windscreen - read carefully for major faults warranties and mileage.Lot number - so you know roughly where it will appear in the sale.Bodywork - look for rust, poor repairs and panel alignment.Trim - anything from a cracked windscreen to missing or damaged accessories. Interior - look for wear and tear, best done when the car is in the auction hall. Engine - are there oil leaks where it is parked? Be there when it is started so that you can check for smoke and listen for noises. The auction driver will usually let you pop the bonnet when it is in the auction hall.
How much to bid? Now is the time to set your budget. Look at the guide trade price and bear in mind what similar vehicles made at the previous sales you attended. The questions are what can you afford and more importantly what are you prepared to pay? Obviously there is no point bidding up to what a main dealer would charge for a car with a year's warranty.
Auction Action: our 10 point bidding plan 1. Before your lot is called position yourself near the car you want. Use your friends if the lots you are after are close together.2. Watch the car being started. Does the oil light go on and off quickly? Does it start first time. Does the engine sound healthy? Are there any strange noises. Is there thick black smoke from the exhaust?3. When driven to the auction hall it will join a short queue of cars. Now is your chance to take a good look inside. Maybe ask the driver to pop the bonnet. Make your decision now, do you want to bid for this car?4. If you want to bid place yourself in view of the auctioneer and listen. What they say now is crucial. Listen out for the good points like a warranty and guaranteed mileage and also any negative ones like 'gearbox trouble'.5. Now programme yourself. What is your budget and if you have a friend with you remind them to stop you bidding above that.6. The auctioneer suggests an opening bid and usually it is an optimistically high figure. Don't get sucked in too early. Wait and see what happens.7. When you do bid raise your arm clearly and confidently. Be aware of the margin of the bid: is it $50, $100, or $00 or more? If you want to make your bid less tell the auctioneer. Don't worry if the auctioneer ignores your bid because they usually concentrate only on two bids at a time.8. If you seem to be bidding against someone you can't see, it is permissible for the auctioneer subject to their company rules, to take 'bids off the wall'. They do this to get closer to the reserve price. So don't get carried away and exceed your bidding budget.9. If you drop out of the bidding a shake of the head is sufficient to indicate this to the auctioneer.10. If your bid is successful you will be required to pay an immediate deposit, usually 10% or a fixed sum in cash to the rostrum clerk.
After the sale The balance will need to be paid within a short period usually with 24 hours, or sometimes before the auction closes, by cash, banker's draft or credit/debit card. You may also have to pay an indemnity fee on a sliding scale according to the cost of the vehicle which insures you against the car being stolen an insurance write off, or still on finance. Bear in mind that if you delay in paying the full amount you will probably be charged storage fees, so don't dally.If your bid was successful but it does not exceed the reserve figure set by the seller, the auctioneers will contact them to find out if they will accept less. In the meantime don't bid for another car or you might end up with two!Should the seller make a counter offer the decision is yours, but don't exceed your budget, or pay more than you think it is actually worth.If you have a bought a vehicle that came with a trial, in most cases you will only have one hour after payment to drive the car and find a serious fault. If a car is sold on an independent engineer's report (attached to the windscreen), or 'with no major mechanical faults' then that is exactly how you should expect the car to be. Remember that it is up to you to check the car's overall exterior condition - paintwork, trim, tyres and the interior, seats and carpets - for example - prior to sale. All these factors are 'sold as seen'. CollectionOnce you have paid, the office should be able to give you all the relevant paperwork,service history and registration details, plus a radio front, or anything else removed from the vehicle for security reasons.Before you drive off though make sure that your insurer will cover you. Also remember that whatever the vehicle inspection may say the vehicle has to be roadworthy. One balding tire or a dodgy wiper blade is illegal and ought to be fixed. It is not unknown for the police to lie in wait at the exit of auctions and book unroadworthy vehicles.
When you get the car home sort out any problems as a precaution and unless there is any evidence that it has been done recently you should have the car serviced.
Dave Burton
Friday, 3 April 2009
Tips On Making Your Car Fuel Efficient
With gas prices increasing most people that drive are interested in ways they can make their car more fuel efficient and save as much money as possible. While there are no fuel saving tips that will keep your car full of gas without filling up, there are some tips that really can help you save money on fuel over the long run. All of these tips focus on making your car more fuel efficient.
1, Drive When You Start Up ;This might seem obvious, but as soon as you crank up your car you should drive off. However, many people crank up and leave the car idling for a while. Instead of this, when you crank up drive off and only keep your car running when it is absolutely necessary.
2, Don't Ride the Brake; Many drivers hit the brake more often than is necessary. Additionally there are quite a few drivers that slow down for a braking car when they could easily switch lanes. Not riding the brake can increase your fuel efficiency by up to 30%, so this is a great tip you should follow.
3, Turn Off Your Car ;If you are going to be stopping for more than 10 minutes you should switch off your car to keep fuel efficiency at its peak and not burn more gas than is necessary.
4, Don't Turn Off Your Car; If you are only stopping for a brief moment or less than 5 minutes then don't turn off your car because the amount of gas used to crank up is more than you would burn in that short period of time.
5, Inflate Tires Properly; Too many drivers never think of their tires, unless one goes flat. However, having tires that are properly inflated can save fuel and make your car more fuel efficient, saving you money. Because of this, you should check your tire pressure on a regular basis. While gas prices don't seem like they will be dipping considerably in the next few months every tip to help you make your car more fuel efficient is helpful. So, follow the above fuel tips and you will see that over time your car really is more fuel efficient.
Dave Burton
Sunday, 29 March 2009
RV Fifth Wheel & Travel Trailer Towing Safety
When towing a 5th wheel or travel trailer, safety should be your #1 priority,an accident while towing these will have greater consequences than in a small car.Consider the following safety tips each time you tow your fifth wheel RV or travel trailer.General Travel Trailer and Fifth Wheel RV Towing TipsIf you are new to RV towing, take time to practice towing your travel trailer or fifth wheel before driving on main roads. Most seasoned RVers recommend finding a large vacant lot and setting up some traffic cones to practice turning and backing. Never allow anyone to ride in or on the travel trailer. Before you leave on a trip, remember to check routes and restrictions on bridges and tunnels. Use the trailer hitch system the manufacturer recommends for towing. Drive at moderate speeds. This will place less strain on your tow vehicle and RV trailer. Trailer instability (sway) is more likely to occur as speed increases. Avoid sudden stops and starts that can cause skidding, sliding, or jackknifing. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers that might create sway or undue side force on the travel trailer. Fifth wheels are less susceptible to side force sway but you should still be aware of the possibility. Slow down when traveling over bumpy roads, railroad crossings, and ditches. Make wider turns at curves and corners. Because your trailer’s wheels are closer to the inside of a turn than the wheels of your tow vehicle, they are more likely to hit or ride up over curbs. Parking a Fifth Wheel or Travel TrailerTry to avoid parking on grades. If possible, have someone outside to guide you as you park. Once stopped, but before shifting into Park, have someone place blocks on the downhill side of the trailer wheels. Apply the parking brake, shift into Park, and then remove your foot from the brake pedal. Following this parking sequence is important to make sure your vehicle does not become locked in Park because of extra load on the transmission. For manual transmissions, apply the parking brake and then turn the vehicle off in either first or reverse gear. When uncoupling a travel trailer or fifth wheel, place blocks at the front and rear of the trailer tires to ensure that the trailer does not roll away when the trailer hitch coupling is released. An unbalanced load may cause the tongue to suddenly rotate upward; therefore, before uncoupling, place jack stands under the rear of the trailer to prevent injury. Backing Up Your Fifth Wheel or Travel TrailerPut your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel. To turn left, move your hand left. To turn right, move your hand right. Back up slowly. Because mirrors cannot provide all of the visibility you may need when backing up, have someone outside at the rear of the trailer to guide you, whenever possible. Use slight movements of the steering wheel to adjust direction. Exaggerated steering control will cause greater movement of the travel trailer. If you have difficulty, pull forward and realign the tow vehicle and trailer and start again. Apply the parking brake, shift into Park, and then remove your foot from the brake pedal. Following this parking sequence is important to make sure your vehicle does not become locked in Park because of extra load on the transmission. For manual transmissions, apply the parking brake and then turn the vehicle off in either first or reverse gear. When uncoupling a trailer, place blocks at the front and rear of the trailer tires to ensure that the trailer does not roll away when the coupling is released. In smaller trailers an unbalanced load may cause the tongue to suddenly rotate upward; therefore, before uncoupling, place jack stands under the rear of the trailer to prevent injury. Braking While Towing a Fifth Wheel or Travel TrailerAllow considerably more distance for stopping. If you have an electric trailer brake controller and excessive sway occurs, activate the trailer brake controller by hand. Do not attempt to control trailer sway by applying the tow vehicle brakes; this will generally make the sway worse. Always anticipate the need to slow down. To reduce speed, shift to a lower gear and press the brakes lightly. Acceleration and Passing While Towing Your Travel Trailer or Fifth WheelWhen passing a slower vehicle or changing lanes, signal well in advance and make sure you allow extra distance to clear the vehicle before you pull back into the lane. Pass on level terrain with plenty of clearance. Avoid passing on steep upgrades or downgrades. If necessary, downshift for improved acceleration or speed maintenance. When passing on narrow roads, be careful not to go onto a soft shoulder. This could cause your trailer to jackknife or go out of control. To control swaying caused by air pressure changes and wind buffeting when larger vehicles pass from either direction, release the accelerator pedal to slow down and keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. When excessive sway occurs, activate the trailer brake controller by hand. Do not attempt to control trailer sway by applying the tow vehicle brakes; this will generally make the sway worse. Towing Your Fifth Wheel or Travel Trailer on Downgrades and UpgradesDownshift to assist with braking on downgrades and to add power for climbing hills. On long downgrades, apply brakes at intervals to keep speed in check. Never leave brakes on for extended periods of time or they may overheat. Some tow vehicles have specifically calibrated transmission tow-modes. Be sure to use the tow-mode recommended by the manufacturer.
Dave Burton
Dave Burton
Saturday, 21 March 2009
Car Rentals On Overseas Vacation
Renting a car for a week or two is no problem. Thanks to the Internet it can be done from the comfort of your home and within minutes. But actually getting the right car for your needs can be difficult. The very concept of "car" is radically different between North America and Europe. Whereas in the US and Canada size really matters, Europeans look for fuel economy and have cramped parking conditions in mind. Here are some hints on choosing the right car when renting.Transmission - Not Automatically AutomaticThe very first thing to bear in mind is the transmission. Whereas most rental cars in North America will be equipped with automatic transmission, manual transmission is the norm in Europe. In addition the gearshift will be to the left of the driver. If you are not familiar with a manual transmission be sure to ask for an automatic. Be prepared for an extra charge at some rental agencies. And remember that the "exotic" automatic transmissions may sell out fast, so book early.Fuel Costs - Don't WorryAs said before, European drivers are obsessed with fuel efficiency. One look at the price of gas in Europe, will explain this obsession to US visitors - expect to pay twice the price you are used to. But fuel efficiency of rental cars should normally be great, even for the larger vehicles. Which ultimately makes driving in Europe not a hugely expensive way of travel.Interior Space - Small BlessingsMost rental cars on offer are standard European or Japanese vehicles, built for cramped road conditions and comparatively short journeys. Especially the lower categories ("Sub-Compact" and "Compact") are typical "city cars" for the occasional user. Even "Mid-Size" in Europe would be rated "Compact" in the US. So expect tighter conditions and choose a larger vehicle if travelling long distances.Seats and Legroom - Be Prepared for SurprisesCars are smaller and Europeans are used to them. This combined leads to the ratings on rental car websites. An international supplier will offer the same size of vehicle with totally different suitability ratings. On the US website rated for two adults and two children, on the Euro website rated for five adults. If you are in any way larger than the average European (5 ft 7 in, 165 pounds) go for a larger vehicle. Some rental companies will tell you equivalent US vehicles to help you choose.The Trunk - Which Trunk?Luggage space in European and Japanese cars can be tight. "Sub-Compact" and "Compact" vehicles will more than likely be of the hatchback type with no actual trunk and a somewhat cramped storage area in the back. Getting four adults and their luggage into a "Sub-Compact" is nearly impossible. If you are planning to take your full baggage allowance go for a "Mid-Size" at least. Do not plan on leaving your luggage in view while touring, this will attract undesirable attention.Extras - You Don't Need ThemWhen looking up European rental cars you might notice that air conditioning or cruise control are not necessarily included in the specifications. You will not really miss them. While air conditioning can occasionally be nice during the European summer, cruise control would be of no practical use at all.
Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com
Friday, 13 March 2009
Freeway Driving
America's freeways, are perfect for getting from one place to another very quickly. Because of the high rates of speed allowed on these routes, it's imperative to follow good freeway driving etiquette so as to avoid impeding the flow of traffic. Here are a few basic steps to follow from the time you enter the freeway until you exit.
Accelerate gradually as you enter the freeway. Traffic is already moving at 55mph to 70mph so this isn't a time for sightseeing. The on-ramp usually gives you enough time and space to catch up with flow of traffic.
Merge left into one of the center lanes. Because the right lane is for slower traffic and those entering or exiting the freeway, you must use the center lanes for travel. Be sure to keep up with the flow of traffic in the center lanes when freeway driving.
Use the left lane for passing only. Once you have completed passing, merge right into one of the center lanes and resume travel. The left lane is not for cruising.
Merge into the right lane to exit the freeway. You will use this lane to gradually decrease your speed and prepare for using the surface roads
If you are cruising in the left lane rather than passing, someone behind you may blow their horn or flash their headlights. Don't get upset. This just means they want to pass and you are probably driving at the same speed as center lane drivers. Simply merge into the center lane and continue driving. This is good freeway driving etiquette and allows other vehicles to use the passing lane for its intended purpose.
Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com
Friday, 6 March 2009
Emergency Breakdown Kit
Is this ever happened to you ? your driving along its 10.30 at night and the rain is lashing down,then bang something happenes to your car and it comes to a halt.You get out the car and see the left rear tire is flat and you're already running on your spare.
If you have an account with the Auto Club and your cell phone works,your in luck, help is not far away. BUT if not, you're either faced with having to hail a passing motorist or spend a night in the motor. That is, unless you have a well-stocked emergency roadside kit in the trunk of your car.
When it comes to commuting or traveling any lengthy distance, a roadside emergency kit can mean the difference between getting back on the road or being stuck for a long period of time. A roadside emergency kit is the one item that every vehicle should have; yet most of us never carry any of the basic items to help you get back on the road quickly and safely.
Some of the basic items include:
12-foot jumper cables
Four 15-minute roadside flares
Two quarts of oil
Gallon of antifreeze
First aid kit (including an assortment of bandages, gauze, adhesive tape, antiseptic cream, instant ice and heat compresses, scissors and aspirin)
Blanket
Extra fuses
Flashlight and extra batteries
Flat head screwdrivers
Phillips head screwdrivers
Pliers
Vise Grips
Adjustable wrench
Tire inflator (such as a Fix-A-Flat)
Tire pressure gauge
Rags
Roll of paper towels
Roll of duct tape
Spray bottle with washer fluid
Pocketknife
Ice scraper
Pen and paper
Help sign
Granola or energy bars
Bottled water
and heavy-duty nylon bag to carry it all in.
Granted, all these items practically necessitate a Ford Truck to haul them down the road, but a basic version with two roadside flares, a quart of oil, small first aid kit, extra fuses, flashlight, a Leatherman Tool (or any other multipurpose tool commonly containing pliers, wire cutters, knife, saw, bottle opener, screwdrivers, files and an awl), tire inflator, rags, pocket knife, pen and paper and a help sign will take up a minimal amount of trunk space.
Safe Travelling
Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com
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