Preparing your car for the winter

With the winter just around the corner this is a good time to prepare your vehicle for the oncoming snows,frosts and what
ever gets thrown at us.

oils and fluids:
Changing fluids on a regular basis is perhaps the most ecinomical way to look after your vehicle,changing the engine oil
every 3-4000 miles,the engine coolant should be diluted 50% with water and the gearbox every couple of years.
A check on a regular basis should also be made of the battery level radiator,steering fluid and the brake levels,
also important with the spray from the salt laden roads is the windshield washer.

Preventing rust:
The best way to prevent rust is to have the vehicle wax oiled from new with the salt from the road attacking any open rust
spot making it a major problem in the future

Tires:
A must is to check on your tires before any bad weather hits , check alignment and tire pressure,not forgetting to rotate them
every 5000 miles or so.Keeping a set of snow chains in the trunk is a good idea,and if it gets to bad many people have snow tires fitted.

Brakes:
Just as important is having reliable brakes,check the brake fluid regularly making sure the brake pads do not wear down scoring the brake drums/discs

Lights:
With bad weather comes dark nights ,so having all the relevant lights working is a must.

Maintain your vehicle regularly to provide years of service with better performance and safety.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

Road Trip Preperation For Your Car

Alot of people have concerns about taking their cars on road trips, especially if their cars are getting on in years or mileage. Amazingly long trips are actually easier on your car than day-to-day driving -- but a breakdown far from home can really ruin your fun. A few simple checks will stave off many common problems. As with most things, it's best to start early.
Two to four weeks before you go, get any major repairs done. If your car needs a major repair or maintenance, do it at least one month before you go. That will allow plenty of time for any problems related to the repair to surface.
Check the coolant. If your destination is a lot warmer or cooler than home, check (or have your garage check) the coolant's mixture of antifreeze and water to make sure the car is properly protected. If the coolant needs to be changed, do it (or have it done) now.
Check the tires. Make sure your tires are inflated to the proper pressure. Low pressure can cause extra heat buildup that can lead to a puncture at high speeds. Follow the instructions for checking tire pressure in your owner's manual. While you're down there, check the tire tread. Place a penny, edge on, in one the grooves of the tire. If you can see the space above Abe's head, it's time for new tires. Also check the tire pressure,if you have the correct pressure this will save you money on gas.
Check the spare tire. Make sure the spare is fully inflated and that the jack, wrench, and other tire-changing bits are in the trunk. If your car has wheel locks, make sure you have the adapter for the lock-nut.
Check the glovebox. Check for the owner's manual and registration. If the manual is missing, consider ordering a replacement before you go. Some automakers have manuals in PDF format on their web sites. Check the registration to make sure it won't expire during your trip. Consider carrying it in your wallet in case the car is stolen.
One week before you go get any scheduled maintenance done. If you think your car is going to come due for an oil change or other maintenance during your trip, get it done now.
Clean out your car. The more stuff you haul, the more fuel you burn. Clean mercilessly. If you're going to the Grand Canyon in the summer, do you really need those snow chains? My rule: If in doubt, take it out. If you miss anything in the next 6 days before your trip, you can always put it back.
Check the air filter. A clogged air filter reduces fuel economy. They're inexpensive and easy to change. If your current air filter has been in the car for more than 10,000 miles, it's time to clean it or change it.
Buy a road atlas. If you don't have a current road atlas, get one. Hours and hours of expressway can get boring. Getting off the beaten path can add an entirely new dimension to your trip.
Join AAA. If you don't have some sort of roadside assistance program, consider joining AAA. They'll tow your car if it breaks, change the tire if it goes flat, jump start the car if the battery dies, open the doors if you get locked out, and give you gas if you run out. An AAA membership will usually pay for itself the first time you run into trouble -- plus you'll get discounts at some roadside motels and restaurants.
One day before you goWash and vacuum your car. Before you pack, give your car a good scrubbing and vacuuming. Clean cars always seem to run better. Besides, who wants to travel in a dirty car?
Fill the gas tank. Might as well get it out of the way now. Besides, gas is often more expensive on the road.
The day of your tripLook at what you've packed. Open your suitcases and take one last look -- do you really need all that stuff? If there's anything you can do without, then do without.
Load evenly and carefully. If you're carrying lots of heavy objects, position them forward in the trunk and distribute the weight evenly side to side. Cars don't have unlimited carrying capacity, so don't overload.
Relax! Unexpected things can happen, but if you've followed these guidelines, you've headed off a lot of potential problems.

Dave Burton
http://www.bargain-motors.com/

Buying a Car at Auction

Perhaps the most risky way to acquire a used car. Whether you buy privately, or from a car dealer there is no guarantee that you will pay the bottom line price. To do that you would have to buy at an auction. The trouble is, things happen fast at auction, very fast indeed. If you miss one lot, another one will be along in a minute and then another and then another.Not surprisingly auctions are not for everyone. However those who are prepared to do some research and use their common sense they can buy a used car at a wholesale price. That is reason enough to consider making a bid at an auction.The way auctions operateIt is very simple. Vehicles are sold on behalf of the owners, who complete a legally binding form (the Entry Form) which attests to the vehicle's age, mileage and condition. Usually a reserve value is set, which is the lowest figure the seller will accept - the auctioneers cannot sell below this value. Auctions are really the stock market of the used car industry.Often vehicles are categorised;there may be executive and prestige sales, late year and low mileage.On the sale day itself all the vehicles will be lined up by lot order in their correct sale section ready to be sold and can be displayed under cover in well-lit viewing areas or outside. A sale catalogue on the morning of the sale can be used by buyers to help them locate potential purchases. Viewing is normally from 9.00 am, with sales starting at 10.00am on the busiest days. However there are evening and Saturday sales aimed more at the private buyer with cheaper cars although the larger number of buyers can push up prices.When the sale starts vehicles are driven into the auction hall in lot order. The car on sale stops in front of the rostrum and the auctioneer describes it to the buyers. Listen closely to what the auctioneer says: that description is legally binding. They could be warranting the mileage, mentioning any major mechanical faults, the existence of a service history, MOT or whether there is a reserve price.Then the auctioneer will ask for a starting bid on the car. The bidding increments are controlled by the auctioneer reflecting the interest from the auction floor. Typically bidding is done in $100 increments or less (sometimes as low as $10), but it is not unusual for $200, $5,000, or even $1,000 bids on high value cars. Don't worry about sneezing, or scratching your itchy nose. There are all sorts of apocryphal stories of people buying cars by mistake, but in today's professional market, that is never going to happen. Just bid clearly by raising your hand.
What cars go to auction?Just in case you wondered, cars come from either the general public, dealers, company fleets, local authorities or finance companies. The dealers dispose of cars because it is an unsuitable part exchange as it is too old, or just the wrong make. Also the car could be too expensive to put right. Quite simply the car may have been stuck on their forecourt without finding a buyer and the dealer would rather have money in the bank than a depreciating hulk in the showroom.It is much rarer to find ordinary members of the public putting their cars through the auction but they will often do so either because they don't want the hassle of selling privately, or that it has been advertised without finding a seller. Again, there may be something wrong with the car that is uneconomic to put right, or won't show up on its brief drive through the auction ring. That is why you need to be so careful.Another group of vehicles are those classed as stolen/recovered and sold by finance or insurance companies. Often they are damaged, but they can be in perfect condition too. Other sources of auction fodder are the fleet and company cars which are usually no more than two or three years old, often with a high mileage but backed up by a full service history. Vehicles also come from utility companies or the Police. They may have lead a hard life but once again maintenance has usually been a priority.
Choose your auctionFind your auction by looking in the phine books - there may well be more than you imagined. Even the classified section of your local paper. Your first visit must always be your research trip. Leave all your money at home and just watch what goes on. It may frighten you off and for some that might be a good thing. Auctions aren't for nervous types.Get a copy of the Conditions of Sale and Entry and any other information issued by the auctioneers. You will find out what rights you do and don't have especially as rules vary between auction companies.Take a price guide with you which you can buy in the newsagent so that you can see what the vehicles are making compared to the wholesale trade, private or dealer price. Ideally it will be around the trade valuation. But always remembers these guides are just that, guides and some models are more in demand than others.Also private buyers can push prices beyond what a dealer would be prepared to pay. Condition is vital and ultimately a car at auction and anywhere else for that matter is only worth what someone is prepared to pay.
Auction language explainedBefore the sale starts listen carefully to what the auctioneer says and also read any stickers on the car windows carefully.'Without reserve' means that the car will be sold to the highest bidder.'Reserve' is the minimum the seller will want for the car, not usually revealed before sale, unless it has been entered previously and didn't sell. Sometimes the auctioneer may give a clue to the reserve.'As seen' is what you see you get, including all the faults. Some cars fall into this category merely because of the seller's policy.'All good', 'on description' or 'no major mechanical defects' sounds promising, but it only applies to the major components. So although the engine, gearbox, axles, steering, suspension and brakes may be fine, instruments, electrics, tyres and trim may be broken or damaged. Some auctions may offer an insurance backed warranty to cover this.'Warranted all good' actually guarantees that the car is as described with no major mechanical faults, so a warranted mileage and service history. A successful bidder can therefore reject a car if it is not up to these standards.'Specified faults' can be underplayed so a phrase such as 'worn gearbox' could actually mean that it is permanently stuck in second. It is worth bearing in mind that an auctioneer is acting as an agent for the seller and may only know as much about the car as they have been told.
Auction Survival Kit - what to take with you Cash: the minimum amount required to pay a deposit, read the conditions of entry to find out how much.Friend: to stop you making any rash bids, or buying something that you don't need. They can also drive you to the auction so you don't have to pay a delivery charge or make a return visit.Old clothes: after all you will be crawling around getting a closer look won't you? Torch: All the better to look into those nooks and crannies.Magnet: When in doubt about filler rely on the old fridge magnet test. Price guide: Newsagent price guides do what they say.Tool kit/gallon of petrol to help you get the car you bid for home. Don't carry the petrol can around with you.
Buy a catalogueThe cars will be parked together and on the windscreen will be a lot number. This gives some indication of the running order, but don't rely on it. There may also be some information about the car such as make, model, mileage and perhaps a brief engineer's assessment, which may not be binding anyway. Watch out for 'sold as seen' and 'recorded on Vcar register'. Don't pin all your hopes on one lot. It could be withdrawn, you might change your mind, or you might not bid enough to buy it, so draw up a shortlist of lots.
Checking the carThere isn't a lot that you can check. The cars are usually parked so close together that they will restrict your view and mostly they will be locked and won't be started until a few minutes before they go into the auction hall.
Tyres - for their condition tread and brand. Entry form on windscreen - read carefully for major faults warranties and mileage.Lot number - so you know roughly where it will appear in the sale.Bodywork - look for rust, poor repairs and panel alignment.Trim - anything from a cracked windscreen to missing or damaged accessories. Interior - look for wear and tear, best done when the car is in the auction hall. Engine - are there oil leaks where it is parked? Be there when it is started so that you can check for smoke and listen for noises. The auction driver will usually let you pop the bonnet when it is in the auction hall.
How much to bid? Now is the time to set your budget. Look at the guide trade price and bear in mind what similar vehicles made at the previous sales you attended. The questions are what can you afford and more importantly what are you prepared to pay? Obviously there is no point bidding up to what a main dealer would charge for a car with a year's warranty.
Auction Action: our 10 point bidding plan 1. Before your lot is called position yourself near the car you want. Use your friends if the lots you are after are close together.2. Watch the car being started. Does the oil light go on and off quickly? Does it start first time. Does the engine sound healthy? Are there any strange noises. Is there thick black smoke from the exhaust?3. When driven to the auction hall it will join a short queue of cars. Now is your chance to take a good look inside. Maybe ask the driver to pop the bonnet. Make your decision now, do you want to bid for this car?4. If you want to bid place yourself in view of the auctioneer and listen. What they say now is crucial. Listen out for the good points like a warranty and guaranteed mileage and also any negative ones like 'gearbox trouble'.5. Now programme yourself. What is your budget and if you have a friend with you remind them to stop you bidding above that.6. The auctioneer suggests an opening bid and usually it is an optimistically high figure. Don't get sucked in too early. Wait and see what happens.7. When you do bid raise your arm clearly and confidently. Be aware of the margin of the bid: is it $50, $100, or $00 or more? If you want to make your bid less tell the auctioneer. Don't worry if the auctioneer ignores your bid because they usually concentrate only on two bids at a time.8. If you seem to be bidding against someone you can't see, it is permissible for the auctioneer subject to their company rules, to take 'bids off the wall'. They do this to get closer to the reserve price. So don't get carried away and exceed your bidding budget.9. If you drop out of the bidding a shake of the head is sufficient to indicate this to the auctioneer.10. If your bid is successful you will be required to pay an immediate deposit, usually 10% or a fixed sum in cash to the rostrum clerk.
After the sale The balance will need to be paid within a short period usually with 24 hours, or sometimes before the auction closes, by cash, banker's draft or credit/debit card. You may also have to pay an indemnity fee on a sliding scale according to the cost of the vehicle which insures you against the car being stolen an insurance write off, or still on finance. Bear in mind that if you delay in paying the full amount you will probably be charged storage fees, so don't dally.If your bid was successful but it does not exceed the reserve figure set by the seller, the auctioneers will contact them to find out if they will accept less. In the meantime don't bid for another car or you might end up with two!Should the seller make a counter offer the decision is yours, but don't exceed your budget, or pay more than you think it is actually worth.If you have a bought a vehicle that came with a trial, in most cases you will only have one hour after payment to drive the car and find a serious fault. If a car is sold on an independent engineer's report (attached to the windscreen), or 'with no major mechanical faults' then that is exactly how you should expect the car to be. Remember that it is up to you to check the car's overall exterior condition - paintwork, trim, tyres and the interior, seats and carpets - for example - prior to sale. All these factors are 'sold as seen'. CollectionOnce you have paid, the office should be able to give you all the relevant paperwork,service history and registration details, plus a radio front, or anything else removed from the vehicle for security reasons.Before you drive off though make sure that your insurer will cover you. Also remember that whatever the vehicle inspection may say the vehicle has to be roadworthy. One balding tire or a dodgy wiper blade is illegal and ought to be fixed. It is not unknown for the police to lie in wait at the exit of auctions and book unroadworthy vehicles.
When you get the car home sort out any problems as a precaution and unless there is any evidence that it has been done recently you should have the car serviced.
Dave Burton

http://www.bargain-motors.com/

Safe Travelling On Vacation

The main thing to do before travelling on vacation is to spend a few minutes checking out your important vehicle systems before hitting the road to prevent your vacation travel from turning into a hassle.
The main concern is arriving safely at your destination.While winter weather, increased traffic, driver fatigue and shortened daylight hours can make driving more hazardous over the holidays, a poorly maintained vehicle shouldn't be added to that list of potential driving hazards.Therefore performing a simple vehicle safety check is neccesary.

Front windshield.
3/4 of all accidents that occur during severe weather are due to impaired visibility,its recommended to get new wiper blades every six months,and switching to high-quality winter blades in areas where snow and ice are expected.
Every vehicle should be equipped with an emergency kit that includes a flashlight, flares or reflective triangles, blanket, food bars, water, cell phone and charger, and a first aid kit.
LIGHTS
Its just as important to see as it is to be seen on the road,its recommended to check all vehicle lights, including headlights, taillights, marker bulbs, fog lights and interior lights.To make sure your turn signals and your brake lights are in working order have someone stand at the back of your car,turn your lights and blinkers on so your assistant can see that they are operating as they should.If the bulbs are not working as they should you can replace any that have burned out or are fading. Check your headlights too, both the low beams and the high beams. You want to make sure other vehicles on the road can see you coming. It is always handy to keep some fuses in your glove compartment. You never know when you may need one.
TIRES:
Check tire tread depth and look for signs of irregular wear. Measure tire pressure when the tires are cold. Inflate the tires to the pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer - information that can be found on the driver's side door posthandbook or manual - but never exceed the maximum inflation pressure printed on the tire sidewall. Proper tire pressure ensures maximum traction, fuel economy, handling, and stopping power.If you see your tires are wearing unevenly you can rotate them, which means switching the back tires to the front and the front tires to the back of the car. If you see wear patterns you may also need to get your car aligned,you also want to make sure you have a spare tire, or a donut tire, and the proper jack and equipment you will need to change a tire.

* Clean all mirrors and adjust them to cover as much of the "blind spot" as possible.

* Strap down all cargo. Even in low-speed accidents, gift boxes and travel supplies become projectiles inside the vehicle.

Always make sure your vehicle has working seatbelts for each passenger. Not all state require drivers and passengers to use seat belts. If your driving through different states during your holiday travel you may want to check the laws of the states you will be driving through. Ignorance of a law will not save you from a ticket if you are stopped.Accidents can happen even if you have checked and prepared your car for your holiday road trip. If you are involved in an accident your seat belts and/or car seats will help to reduce the chances of your being seriously injured.Just in case of an accident, put a disposable camera in your glove compartment. If you need to you will be able to take pictures of the accident scene for your insurance company. Be sure to carry your registration and insurance papers in the glove box as well.A pen and some paper can be of help if you need to exchange insurance and license information with someone. You will also be able to write down the details of the accident so you don't forget any details.
To ensure your vacation travel plans run smoothly you need to plan and make a little effort. The last thing you would want to happen is to have your car break down, so give your vehicle a little attention before you leave.You should give your car a complete going over. Give your car an oil change. While your at it check all the fluids including your transmission fluid, brake fluid and your windshield wiper fluid.While your working under the hood of your car check the hoses for signs of wear. If the hoses in your engine look worn, have them replaced. You don't want them to break down during your trip.
Today most of us have cell phones and carry them with us at all times. Remember to charge your cell phone or to bring your charger. For road travel it is a good idea to have a battery charger that can plug into your cigarette lighter. You don't want to get caught breaking down on the road with a dead cell phone.If you don't have a cell phone you can purchase one that has prepaid minutes already on it. You won't have to sign a contract for this type of phone and when the minutes run out, you can dispose of the phone or pay to have more minutes put on it.
Once you've completed the safety check, you can then focus on maximizing fuel economy, even though your vehicle may be loaded down with people and or presents, by having a clean air filter and by adding fuel injector cleaner to the vehicle's gas tank prior to departure is recomended.

If you are going to be one of the thousands of people traveling the roads for the holidays in your own car, rather than a rental vehicle, make sure you have done all you can to prepare your car for the trip. Car maintenance and repair will help to insure your vacation trip is a happy and successful journey.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

Driving in the Snow

When Driving in the snow make sure that your car is well maintained, plan your route carefully and check the latest weather forecast.
Keep a full petrol tank. It may be necessary to change routes or turn back during a bad snow storm.
It's also a good idea to keep a breakdown kit (warning triangle, torch, blanket, chocolate bar and a shovel) in your car in case of emergency. Membership of a breakdown service is also advised.
The first fall of snow is very dangerous if the roads have not been gritted. Once gritted, there should be enough grip for careful driving, but it's when snow becomes compacted and refrozen overnight that the greatest care must be taken. Ungritted roads will become impassable by most vehicles and even gritted surfaces can remain extremely slippery.
Keep your windshield and windows clear.Keep a ice scraper handy, and use the car defroster or a clean cloth to keep the windows free of mist
Allow more distance between your vehicle and the vehicle ahead. At least TEN seconds.
If your vehicle skids, don't hit the brakes! Ease off the accelerator and steer slightly into the direction of the skid until you gain control. Turn with steady rather than jerky motions.
An equally common problem is getting stuck in the snow. Your wheels spin but your car goes nowhere. This is when emergency equipment is most important. Don't continue to spin your wheels; you'll only wind up in a deeper rut. Instead, pour sand, salt or gravel around the drive wheels to give them something to grab onto and improve traction ( An old piece carpet is ideal). You can also shovel snow away from the wheels and out from under the car to clear a pathway.
Ice is even more dangerous, because the thicker it is, the harder it is to see. When running or standing water freezes on the road, it forms black ice. This can linger in the shadows cast by trees and buildings throughout an otherwise sunny day. So if there has been a sharp frost overnight, be careful, especially when driving through shadows that keep the sun off corners and roundabouts.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com