Alot of people have concerns about taking their cars on road trips, especially if their cars are getting on in years or mileage. Amazingly long trips are actually easier on your car than day-to-day driving -- but a breakdown far from home can really ruin your fun. A few simple checks will stave off many common problems. As with most things, it's best to start early.
Two to four weeks before you go, get any major repairs done. If your car needs a major repair or maintenance, do it at least one month before you go. That will allow plenty of time for any problems related to the repair to surface.
Check the coolant. If your destination is a lot warmer or cooler than home, check (or have your garage check) the coolant's mixture of antifreeze and water to make sure the car is properly protected. If the coolant needs to be changed, do it (or have it done) now.
Check the tires. Make sure your tires are inflated to the proper pressure. Low pressure can cause extra heat buildup that can lead to a puncture at high speeds. Follow the instructions for checking tire pressure in your owner's manual. While you're down there, check the tire tread. Place a penny, edge on, in one the grooves of the tire. If you can see the space above Abe's head, it's time for new tires. Also check the tire pressure,if you have the correct pressure this will save you money on gas.
Check the spare tire. Make sure the spare is fully inflated and that the jack, wrench, and other tire-changing bits are in the trunk. If your car has wheel locks, make sure you have the adapter for the lock-nut.
Check the glovebox. Check for the owner's manual and registration. If the manual is missing, consider ordering a replacement before you go. Some automakers have manuals in PDF format on their web sites. Check the registration to make sure it won't expire during your trip. Consider carrying it in your wallet in case the car is stolen.
One week before you go get any scheduled maintenance done. If you think your car is going to come due for an oil change or other maintenance during your trip, get it done now.
Clean out your car. The more stuff you haul, the more fuel you burn. Clean mercilessly. If you're going to the Grand Canyon in the summer, do you really need those snow chains? My rule: If in doubt, take it out. If you miss anything in the next 6 days before your trip, you can always put it back.
Check the air filter. A clogged air filter reduces fuel economy. They're inexpensive and easy to change. If your current air filter has been in the car for more than 10,000 miles, it's time to clean it or change it.
Buy a road atlas. If you don't have a current road atlas, get one. Hours and hours of expressway can get boring. Getting off the beaten path can add an entirely new dimension to your trip.
Join AAA. If you don't have some sort of roadside assistance program, consider joining AAA. They'll tow your car if it breaks, change the tire if it goes flat, jump start the car if the battery dies, open the doors if you get locked out, and give you gas if you run out. An AAA membership will usually pay for itself the first time you run into trouble -- plus you'll get discounts at some roadside motels and restaurants.
One day before you goWash and vacuum your car. Before you pack, give your car a good scrubbing and vacuuming. Clean cars always seem to run better. Besides, who wants to travel in a dirty car?
Fill the gas tank. Might as well get it out of the way now. Besides, gas is often more expensive on the road.
The day of your tripLook at what you've packed. Open your suitcases and take one last look -- do you really need all that stuff? If there's anything you can do without, then do without.
Load evenly and carefully. If you're carrying lots of heavy objects, position them forward in the trunk and distribute the weight evenly side to side. Cars don't have unlimited carrying capacity, so don't overload.
Relax! Unexpected things can happen, but if you've followed these guidelines, you've headed off a lot of potential problems.
Dave Burton
http://www.bargain-motors.com/
Showing posts with label cars motorbikes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cars motorbikes. Show all posts
Saturday, 1 August 2009
Saturday, 18 July 2009
Cash or Loan For Your Next Car
Paying cash for a car vs taking out a loan when purchasing a vehicle is a big decision and involves a lot of money. There's always the questions of whether to go used or new, buy or lease, finance through the dealership or the bank or to even pay cash and avoid payments. On the matter of automobile loans it seems like they've really become a part of everyday life; it would almost seem strange not to have a monthly payment. We've become use to the idea of a loan that allows us to enjoy a car sooner than we might have been able to. But how much do we pay for that convenience?So what does taking a 5%, 60-month loan actually costs you over 5 years:With $5,000 down payment with a loan of 5% over 5 yrs equates to a loan balance of about $15,000 = $2,025 in interestWithout the down payment and a starting balance of $20,000 = $2,685 in interestNot a huge difference, but the down payment dropped the monthly payment by $100. In both situations, the cost of the loan would run about 13.5% of the loan value. You can think of that 13.5% as a hidden tax on the car, which is more than the sales tax and other fees that get tacked on. Over a lifetime those interest payments can really add up. Aside from leasing, buying a car outright is your only other option. Why don't we buy new cars with cash more often?Because we are in a "I want it now" world,you could pay $330 dollars each month into a high-yield savings account for 5 years and buy a truck without getting a loan and saving yourself over $2000 dollars and earning interest on your deposit in the process. So why don't you? Mostly because people want a new vehicle sooner than later. You could even have replaced your car with a newer used car .The trade-in acting as a down payment is what keeps this from being outrageous, actually these numbers don't seem too bad. $21,500 in interest payments over a lifetime isn't too big of a deal. To accomplish the task of providing our own financing we have to delay our gratification and save. For the 5 years prior to a car purchase, we deposit the total cost of $60 into a high yield savings account every month, about $333 for a $20,000 car. The interest earned on the savings earmarked for a new car can be transfered to other investments for additional growth after the purchase. So by delaying the first car purchase and continuing that discipline we've saved $21,500 in interest payments, or have we?What would happen if we took every dollar we would be giving to a bank in interest and invested it in a Roth IRA (all contributions and earnings can be pulled out tax-free during retirement). $21,500 over 50 years is $430 a year, $36 a month. That's money we'd normally be giving away so why not invest it instead. Let's say our IRA starts with a $0 balance, grows at 8% and we don't worry about inflation yet.Amount invested = $21,500 Simple earnings = $43,860 Compund earnings = $201,099 Total account value after 50 years = $266,459 .This tho is a hypothetical situation, but the outcome and general idea are pretty clear. By delaying a car purchase and avoiding interest payments we are presented with the opportunity for incredible growth over the long term. Even without investing the difference you can save a good chunk of change. This scenario doesn't take into consideration a longer period between purchases or the possibility of buying used cars, both of which would allow more income to be directed towards investments.This is not the absolute best way to purchase cars, but the hidden costs of automobile loans aren't apparent until you crunch some numbers.
Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com
Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com
Friday, 8 May 2009
Top Tips for Saving Money on Car Parts and Maintainence
Taking care of your car maintenance can be very rewarding if done properly so here's a list of seven top tips that can help you save money on your car parts and service.
1. A well tuned car can have a fuel consumption from 25% to 33% lower than a poorly tuned car making a tune-up cheaper than driving without it, tuning your car for better performance can save you between ${
150 and $300 per year.
2. Regardless of the number of miles the manual recommends a oil change and filter change you should change them every 3,000 miles. This is one of the most important factors in your engine's life since it's going to prolong your engine's life and you're going to save on engine car parts. The potential savings are $500 to $3000.
3. Dirty air filter means more gasoline used and reduces the engine's life so you should check it regularly, maybe monthly. The air filter can be cleaned by blowing it with a hose or can be replaced. You can save about $130 per year..
4. Using steel-belted radial tires can increase the number of miles you make per year by up to 10%, saving this way about $130 per year.
5. Most cars, don't work better on premium gas, so, unless your car is pinging or knocking you shouldn't use higher octane gas. If your car doesn't have a high performance engine, using the gas that best suits your car's engine can save you $200 to $400 per year.
6. Having under inflated tires makes your engine burn about 6% more gas so make sure you check your tire pressure regularly.
7. If your tires are improperly balanced the tread on them will be destroyed. In addition, your suspension and shock absorbers can be damaged leading to more expense on car parts and service. Balancing your tires once a year can add thousands of miles to their life.
Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com
1. A well tuned car can have a fuel consumption from 25% to 33% lower than a poorly tuned car making a tune-up cheaper than driving without it, tuning your car for better performance can save you between ${
150 and $300 per year.
2. Regardless of the number of miles the manual recommends a oil change and filter change you should change them every 3,000 miles. This is one of the most important factors in your engine's life since it's going to prolong your engine's life and you're going to save on engine car parts. The potential savings are $500 to $3000.
3. Dirty air filter means more gasoline used and reduces the engine's life so you should check it regularly, maybe monthly. The air filter can be cleaned by blowing it with a hose or can be replaced. You can save about $130 per year..
4. Using steel-belted radial tires can increase the number of miles you make per year by up to 10%, saving this way about $130 per year.
5. Most cars, don't work better on premium gas, so, unless your car is pinging or knocking you shouldn't use higher octane gas. If your car doesn't have a high performance engine, using the gas that best suits your car's engine can save you $200 to $400 per year.
6. Having under inflated tires makes your engine burn about 6% more gas so make sure you check your tire pressure regularly.
7. If your tires are improperly balanced the tread on them will be destroyed. In addition, your suspension and shock absorbers can be damaged leading to more expense on car parts and service. Balancing your tires once a year can add thousands of miles to their life.
Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com
Friday, 24 April 2009
Buying a Car at Auction
Perhaps the most risky way to acquire a used car. Whether you buy privately, or from a car dealer there is no guarantee that you will pay the bottom line price. To do that you would have to buy at an auction. The trouble is, things happen fast at auction, very fast indeed. If you miss one lot, another one will be along in a minute and then another and then another.Not surprisingly auctions are not for everyone. However those who are prepared to do some research and use their common sense they can buy a used car at a wholesale price. That is reason enough to consider making a bid at an auction.The way auctions operateIt is very simple. Vehicles are sold on behalf of the owners, who complete a legally binding form (the Entry Form) which attests to the vehicle's age, mileage and condition. Usually a reserve value is set, which is the lowest figure the seller will accept - the auctioneers cannot sell below this value. Auctions are really the stock market of the used car industry.Often vehicles are categorised;there may be executive and prestige sales, late year and low mileage.On the sale day itself all the vehicles will be lined up by lot order in their correct sale section ready to be sold and can be displayed under cover in well-lit viewing areas or outside. A sale catalogue on the morning of the sale can be used by buyers to help them locate potential purchases. Viewing is normally from 9.00 am, with sales starting at 10.00am on the busiest days. However there are evening and Saturday sales aimed more at the private buyer with cheaper cars although the larger number of buyers can push up prices.When the sale starts vehicles are driven into the auction hall in lot order. The car on sale stops in front of the rostrum and the auctioneer describes it to the buyers. Listen closely to what the auctioneer says: that description is legally binding. They could be warranting the mileage, mentioning any major mechanical faults, the existence of a service history, MOT or whether there is a reserve price.Then the auctioneer will ask for a starting bid on the car. The bidding increments are controlled by the auctioneer reflecting the interest from the auction floor. Typically bidding is done in $100 increments or less (sometimes as low as $10), but it is not unusual for $200, $5,000, or even $1,000 bids on high value cars. Don't worry about sneezing, or scratching your itchy nose. There are all sorts of apocryphal stories of people buying cars by mistake, but in today's professional market, that is never going to happen. Just bid clearly by raising your hand.
What cars go to auction?Just in case you wondered, cars come from either the general public, dealers, company fleets, local authorities or finance companies. The dealers dispose of cars because it is an unsuitable part exchange as it is too old, or just the wrong make. Also the car could be too expensive to put right. Quite simply the car may have been stuck on their forecourt without finding a buyer and the dealer would rather have money in the bank than a depreciating hulk in the showroom.It is much rarer to find ordinary members of the public putting their cars through the auction but they will often do so either because they don't want the hassle of selling privately, or that it has been advertised without finding a seller. Again, there may be something wrong with the car that is uneconomic to put right, or won't show up on its brief drive through the auction ring. That is why you need to be so careful.Another group of vehicles are those classed as stolen/recovered and sold by finance or insurance companies. Often they are damaged, but they can be in perfect condition too. Other sources of auction fodder are the fleet and company cars which are usually no more than two or three years old, often with a high mileage but backed up by a full service history. Vehicles also come from utility companies or the Police. They may have lead a hard life but once again maintenance has usually been a priority.
Choose your auctionFind your auction by looking in the phine books - there may well be more than you imagined. Even the classified section of your local paper. Your first visit must always be your research trip. Leave all your money at home and just watch what goes on. It may frighten you off and for some that might be a good thing. Auctions aren't for nervous types.Get a copy of the Conditions of Sale and Entry and any other information issued by the auctioneers. You will find out what rights you do and don't have especially as rules vary between auction companies.Take a price guide with you which you can buy in the newsagent so that you can see what the vehicles are making compared to the wholesale trade, private or dealer price. Ideally it will be around the trade valuation. But always remembers these guides are just that, guides and some models are more in demand than others.Also private buyers can push prices beyond what a dealer would be prepared to pay. Condition is vital and ultimately a car at auction and anywhere else for that matter is only worth what someone is prepared to pay.
Auction language explainedBefore the sale starts listen carefully to what the auctioneer says and also read any stickers on the car windows carefully.'Without reserve' means that the car will be sold to the highest bidder.'Reserve' is the minimum the seller will want for the car, not usually revealed before sale, unless it has been entered previously and didn't sell. Sometimes the auctioneer may give a clue to the reserve.'As seen' is what you see you get, including all the faults. Some cars fall into this category merely because of the seller's policy.'All good', 'on description' or 'no major mechanical defects' sounds promising, but it only applies to the major components. So although the engine, gearbox, axles, steering, suspension and brakes may be fine, instruments, electrics, tyres and trim may be broken or damaged. Some auctions may offer an insurance backed warranty to cover this.'Warranted all good' actually guarantees that the car is as described with no major mechanical faults, so a warranted mileage and service history. A successful bidder can therefore reject a car if it is not up to these standards.'Specified faults' can be underplayed so a phrase such as 'worn gearbox' could actually mean that it is permanently stuck in second. It is worth bearing in mind that an auctioneer is acting as an agent for the seller and may only know as much about the car as they have been told.
Auction Survival Kit - what to take with you Cash: the minimum amount required to pay a deposit, read the conditions of entry to find out how much.Friend: to stop you making any rash bids, or buying something that you don't need. They can also drive you to the auction so you don't have to pay a delivery charge or make a return visit.Old clothes: after all you will be crawling around getting a closer look won't you? Torch: All the better to look into those nooks and crannies.Magnet: When in doubt about filler rely on the old fridge magnet test. Price guide: Newsagent price guides do what they say.Tool kit/gallon of petrol to help you get the car you bid for home. Don't carry the petrol can around with you.
Buy a catalogueThe cars will be parked together and on the windscreen will be a lot number. This gives some indication of the running order, but don't rely on it. There may also be some information about the car such as make, model, mileage and perhaps a brief engineer's assessment, which may not be binding anyway. Watch out for 'sold as seen' and 'recorded on Vcar register'. Don't pin all your hopes on one lot. It could be withdrawn, you might change your mind, or you might not bid enough to buy it, so draw up a shortlist of lots.
Checking the carThere isn't a lot that you can check. The cars are usually parked so close together that they will restrict your view and mostly they will be locked and won't be started until a few minutes before they go into the auction hall.
Tyres - for their condition tread and brand. Entry form on windscreen - read carefully for major faults warranties and mileage.Lot number - so you know roughly where it will appear in the sale.Bodywork - look for rust, poor repairs and panel alignment.Trim - anything from a cracked windscreen to missing or damaged accessories. Interior - look for wear and tear, best done when the car is in the auction hall. Engine - are there oil leaks where it is parked? Be there when it is started so that you can check for smoke and listen for noises. The auction driver will usually let you pop the bonnet when it is in the auction hall.
How much to bid? Now is the time to set your budget. Look at the guide trade price and bear in mind what similar vehicles made at the previous sales you attended. The questions are what can you afford and more importantly what are you prepared to pay? Obviously there is no point bidding up to what a main dealer would charge for a car with a year's warranty.
Auction Action: our 10 point bidding plan 1. Before your lot is called position yourself near the car you want. Use your friends if the lots you are after are close together.2. Watch the car being started. Does the oil light go on and off quickly? Does it start first time. Does the engine sound healthy? Are there any strange noises. Is there thick black smoke from the exhaust?3. When driven to the auction hall it will join a short queue of cars. Now is your chance to take a good look inside. Maybe ask the driver to pop the bonnet. Make your decision now, do you want to bid for this car?4. If you want to bid place yourself in view of the auctioneer and listen. What they say now is crucial. Listen out for the good points like a warranty and guaranteed mileage and also any negative ones like 'gearbox trouble'.5. Now programme yourself. What is your budget and if you have a friend with you remind them to stop you bidding above that.6. The auctioneer suggests an opening bid and usually it is an optimistically high figure. Don't get sucked in too early. Wait and see what happens.7. When you do bid raise your arm clearly and confidently. Be aware of the margin of the bid: is it $50, $100, or $00 or more? If you want to make your bid less tell the auctioneer. Don't worry if the auctioneer ignores your bid because they usually concentrate only on two bids at a time.8. If you seem to be bidding against someone you can't see, it is permissible for the auctioneer subject to their company rules, to take 'bids off the wall'. They do this to get closer to the reserve price. So don't get carried away and exceed your bidding budget.9. If you drop out of the bidding a shake of the head is sufficient to indicate this to the auctioneer.10. If your bid is successful you will be required to pay an immediate deposit, usually 10% or a fixed sum in cash to the rostrum clerk.
After the sale The balance will need to be paid within a short period usually with 24 hours, or sometimes before the auction closes, by cash, banker's draft or credit/debit card. You may also have to pay an indemnity fee on a sliding scale according to the cost of the vehicle which insures you against the car being stolen an insurance write off, or still on finance. Bear in mind that if you delay in paying the full amount you will probably be charged storage fees, so don't dally.If your bid was successful but it does not exceed the reserve figure set by the seller, the auctioneers will contact them to find out if they will accept less. In the meantime don't bid for another car or you might end up with two!Should the seller make a counter offer the decision is yours, but don't exceed your budget, or pay more than you think it is actually worth.If you have a bought a vehicle that came with a trial, in most cases you will only have one hour after payment to drive the car and find a serious fault. If a car is sold on an independent engineer's report (attached to the windscreen), or 'with no major mechanical faults' then that is exactly how you should expect the car to be. Remember that it is up to you to check the car's overall exterior condition - paintwork, trim, tyres and the interior, seats and carpets - for example - prior to sale. All these factors are 'sold as seen'. CollectionOnce you have paid, the office should be able to give you all the relevant paperwork,service history and registration details, plus a radio front, or anything else removed from the vehicle for security reasons.Before you drive off though make sure that your insurer will cover you. Also remember that whatever the vehicle inspection may say the vehicle has to be roadworthy. One balding tire or a dodgy wiper blade is illegal and ought to be fixed. It is not unknown for the police to lie in wait at the exit of auctions and book unroadworthy vehicles.
When you get the car home sort out any problems as a precaution and unless there is any evidence that it has been done recently you should have the car serviced.
Dave Burton
What cars go to auction?Just in case you wondered, cars come from either the general public, dealers, company fleets, local authorities or finance companies. The dealers dispose of cars because it is an unsuitable part exchange as it is too old, or just the wrong make. Also the car could be too expensive to put right. Quite simply the car may have been stuck on their forecourt without finding a buyer and the dealer would rather have money in the bank than a depreciating hulk in the showroom.It is much rarer to find ordinary members of the public putting their cars through the auction but they will often do so either because they don't want the hassle of selling privately, or that it has been advertised without finding a seller. Again, there may be something wrong with the car that is uneconomic to put right, or won't show up on its brief drive through the auction ring. That is why you need to be so careful.Another group of vehicles are those classed as stolen/recovered and sold by finance or insurance companies. Often they are damaged, but they can be in perfect condition too. Other sources of auction fodder are the fleet and company cars which are usually no more than two or three years old, often with a high mileage but backed up by a full service history. Vehicles also come from utility companies or the Police. They may have lead a hard life but once again maintenance has usually been a priority.
Choose your auctionFind your auction by looking in the phine books - there may well be more than you imagined. Even the classified section of your local paper. Your first visit must always be your research trip. Leave all your money at home and just watch what goes on. It may frighten you off and for some that might be a good thing. Auctions aren't for nervous types.Get a copy of the Conditions of Sale and Entry and any other information issued by the auctioneers. You will find out what rights you do and don't have especially as rules vary between auction companies.Take a price guide with you which you can buy in the newsagent so that you can see what the vehicles are making compared to the wholesale trade, private or dealer price. Ideally it will be around the trade valuation. But always remembers these guides are just that, guides and some models are more in demand than others.Also private buyers can push prices beyond what a dealer would be prepared to pay. Condition is vital and ultimately a car at auction and anywhere else for that matter is only worth what someone is prepared to pay.
Auction language explainedBefore the sale starts listen carefully to what the auctioneer says and also read any stickers on the car windows carefully.'Without reserve' means that the car will be sold to the highest bidder.'Reserve' is the minimum the seller will want for the car, not usually revealed before sale, unless it has been entered previously and didn't sell. Sometimes the auctioneer may give a clue to the reserve.'As seen' is what you see you get, including all the faults. Some cars fall into this category merely because of the seller's policy.'All good', 'on description' or 'no major mechanical defects' sounds promising, but it only applies to the major components. So although the engine, gearbox, axles, steering, suspension and brakes may be fine, instruments, electrics, tyres and trim may be broken or damaged. Some auctions may offer an insurance backed warranty to cover this.'Warranted all good' actually guarantees that the car is as described with no major mechanical faults, so a warranted mileage and service history. A successful bidder can therefore reject a car if it is not up to these standards.'Specified faults' can be underplayed so a phrase such as 'worn gearbox' could actually mean that it is permanently stuck in second. It is worth bearing in mind that an auctioneer is acting as an agent for the seller and may only know as much about the car as they have been told.
Auction Survival Kit - what to take with you Cash: the minimum amount required to pay a deposit, read the conditions of entry to find out how much.Friend: to stop you making any rash bids, or buying something that you don't need. They can also drive you to the auction so you don't have to pay a delivery charge or make a return visit.Old clothes: after all you will be crawling around getting a closer look won't you? Torch: All the better to look into those nooks and crannies.Magnet: When in doubt about filler rely on the old fridge magnet test. Price guide: Newsagent price guides do what they say.Tool kit/gallon of petrol to help you get the car you bid for home. Don't carry the petrol can around with you.
Buy a catalogueThe cars will be parked together and on the windscreen will be a lot number. This gives some indication of the running order, but don't rely on it. There may also be some information about the car such as make, model, mileage and perhaps a brief engineer's assessment, which may not be binding anyway. Watch out for 'sold as seen' and 'recorded on Vcar register'. Don't pin all your hopes on one lot. It could be withdrawn, you might change your mind, or you might not bid enough to buy it, so draw up a shortlist of lots.
Checking the carThere isn't a lot that you can check. The cars are usually parked so close together that they will restrict your view and mostly they will be locked and won't be started until a few minutes before they go into the auction hall.
Tyres - for their condition tread and brand. Entry form on windscreen - read carefully for major faults warranties and mileage.Lot number - so you know roughly where it will appear in the sale.Bodywork - look for rust, poor repairs and panel alignment.Trim - anything from a cracked windscreen to missing or damaged accessories. Interior - look for wear and tear, best done when the car is in the auction hall. Engine - are there oil leaks where it is parked? Be there when it is started so that you can check for smoke and listen for noises. The auction driver will usually let you pop the bonnet when it is in the auction hall.
How much to bid? Now is the time to set your budget. Look at the guide trade price and bear in mind what similar vehicles made at the previous sales you attended. The questions are what can you afford and more importantly what are you prepared to pay? Obviously there is no point bidding up to what a main dealer would charge for a car with a year's warranty.
Auction Action: our 10 point bidding plan 1. Before your lot is called position yourself near the car you want. Use your friends if the lots you are after are close together.2. Watch the car being started. Does the oil light go on and off quickly? Does it start first time. Does the engine sound healthy? Are there any strange noises. Is there thick black smoke from the exhaust?3. When driven to the auction hall it will join a short queue of cars. Now is your chance to take a good look inside. Maybe ask the driver to pop the bonnet. Make your decision now, do you want to bid for this car?4. If you want to bid place yourself in view of the auctioneer and listen. What they say now is crucial. Listen out for the good points like a warranty and guaranteed mileage and also any negative ones like 'gearbox trouble'.5. Now programme yourself. What is your budget and if you have a friend with you remind them to stop you bidding above that.6. The auctioneer suggests an opening bid and usually it is an optimistically high figure. Don't get sucked in too early. Wait and see what happens.7. When you do bid raise your arm clearly and confidently. Be aware of the margin of the bid: is it $50, $100, or $00 or more? If you want to make your bid less tell the auctioneer. Don't worry if the auctioneer ignores your bid because they usually concentrate only on two bids at a time.8. If you seem to be bidding against someone you can't see, it is permissible for the auctioneer subject to their company rules, to take 'bids off the wall'. They do this to get closer to the reserve price. So don't get carried away and exceed your bidding budget.9. If you drop out of the bidding a shake of the head is sufficient to indicate this to the auctioneer.10. If your bid is successful you will be required to pay an immediate deposit, usually 10% or a fixed sum in cash to the rostrum clerk.
After the sale The balance will need to be paid within a short period usually with 24 hours, or sometimes before the auction closes, by cash, banker's draft or credit/debit card. You may also have to pay an indemnity fee on a sliding scale according to the cost of the vehicle which insures you against the car being stolen an insurance write off, or still on finance. Bear in mind that if you delay in paying the full amount you will probably be charged storage fees, so don't dally.If your bid was successful but it does not exceed the reserve figure set by the seller, the auctioneers will contact them to find out if they will accept less. In the meantime don't bid for another car or you might end up with two!Should the seller make a counter offer the decision is yours, but don't exceed your budget, or pay more than you think it is actually worth.If you have a bought a vehicle that came with a trial, in most cases you will only have one hour after payment to drive the car and find a serious fault. If a car is sold on an independent engineer's report (attached to the windscreen), or 'with no major mechanical faults' then that is exactly how you should expect the car to be. Remember that it is up to you to check the car's overall exterior condition - paintwork, trim, tyres and the interior, seats and carpets - for example - prior to sale. All these factors are 'sold as seen'. CollectionOnce you have paid, the office should be able to give you all the relevant paperwork,service history and registration details, plus a radio front, or anything else removed from the vehicle for security reasons.Before you drive off though make sure that your insurer will cover you. Also remember that whatever the vehicle inspection may say the vehicle has to be roadworthy. One balding tire or a dodgy wiper blade is illegal and ought to be fixed. It is not unknown for the police to lie in wait at the exit of auctions and book unroadworthy vehicles.
When you get the car home sort out any problems as a precaution and unless there is any evidence that it has been done recently you should have the car serviced.
Dave Burton
Saturday, 21 March 2009
Car Rentals On Overseas Vacation
Renting a car for a week or two is no problem. Thanks to the Internet it can be done from the comfort of your home and within minutes. But actually getting the right car for your needs can be difficult. The very concept of "car" is radically different between North America and Europe. Whereas in the US and Canada size really matters, Europeans look for fuel economy and have cramped parking conditions in mind. Here are some hints on choosing the right car when renting.Transmission - Not Automatically AutomaticThe very first thing to bear in mind is the transmission. Whereas most rental cars in North America will be equipped with automatic transmission, manual transmission is the norm in Europe. In addition the gearshift will be to the left of the driver. If you are not familiar with a manual transmission be sure to ask for an automatic. Be prepared for an extra charge at some rental agencies. And remember that the "exotic" automatic transmissions may sell out fast, so book early.Fuel Costs - Don't WorryAs said before, European drivers are obsessed with fuel efficiency. One look at the price of gas in Europe, will explain this obsession to US visitors - expect to pay twice the price you are used to. But fuel efficiency of rental cars should normally be great, even for the larger vehicles. Which ultimately makes driving in Europe not a hugely expensive way of travel.Interior Space - Small BlessingsMost rental cars on offer are standard European or Japanese vehicles, built for cramped road conditions and comparatively short journeys. Especially the lower categories ("Sub-Compact" and "Compact") are typical "city cars" for the occasional user. Even "Mid-Size" in Europe would be rated "Compact" in the US. So expect tighter conditions and choose a larger vehicle if travelling long distances.Seats and Legroom - Be Prepared for SurprisesCars are smaller and Europeans are used to them. This combined leads to the ratings on rental car websites. An international supplier will offer the same size of vehicle with totally different suitability ratings. On the US website rated for two adults and two children, on the Euro website rated for five adults. If you are in any way larger than the average European (5 ft 7 in, 165 pounds) go for a larger vehicle. Some rental companies will tell you equivalent US vehicles to help you choose.The Trunk - Which Trunk?Luggage space in European and Japanese cars can be tight. "Sub-Compact" and "Compact" vehicles will more than likely be of the hatchback type with no actual trunk and a somewhat cramped storage area in the back. Getting four adults and their luggage into a "Sub-Compact" is nearly impossible. If you are planning to take your full baggage allowance go for a "Mid-Size" at least. Do not plan on leaving your luggage in view while touring, this will attract undesirable attention.Extras - You Don't Need ThemWhen looking up European rental cars you might notice that air conditioning or cruise control are not necessarily included in the specifications. You will not really miss them. While air conditioning can occasionally be nice during the European summer, cruise control would be of no practical use at all.
Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com
Friday, 13 February 2009
Online Auctions
In times of recession more people are looking for vehicle auctions online. It is commom knowledge that you can get the lowest price for any vehicle that you want through an online vehicle auction website.
Used Vehicle Dealers
Used vehicle dealers have been using vehicle online auctions websites to find a bargain. Most often they can find a great vehicle at a cheap price that they then sell again at their dealerships to get a high profit.
1. The Top Tips at Auctions
The secret is to know what you are dealing with. Once you make a bid, all bids are considered final. Before you make a bid you need to join the auto auctions online websites.
There are free auction websites such as www.bargain-motors.com and paid websites such as Car Online Auctions where you can access a database containing car auctions across United States. There is one story where one client saved over $8000 buying car through Car Online Auctions.
2. What You Should Do?
The first thing you should do is to research the price at your local dealerships first. This will give you a good idea what you can expect to pay at auto auctions online website. Aim to pay at least 20% lower than the price you have found at your local dealerships.
The next thing you should do is to research other similar listings selling same vehicle. In that way, you can compare different sellers and the offers.
The last thing is to look for the vehicle condition. You need to be aware that there might be few problems hidden by the sellers. It will be wise to bring mechanic to inspect the vehicles conditions.
You can start to find the vehicle of your dreams by visiting http://www.bargain-motors.com You can find all models, years, and types of vehicles that fit your budget across United States.
Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com
Used Vehicle Dealers
Used vehicle dealers have been using vehicle online auctions websites to find a bargain. Most often they can find a great vehicle at a cheap price that they then sell again at their dealerships to get a high profit.
1. The Top Tips at Auctions
The secret is to know what you are dealing with. Once you make a bid, all bids are considered final. Before you make a bid you need to join the auto auctions online websites.
There are free auction websites such as www.bargain-motors.com and paid websites such as Car Online Auctions where you can access a database containing car auctions across United States. There is one story where one client saved over $8000 buying car through Car Online Auctions.
2. What You Should Do?
The first thing you should do is to research the price at your local dealerships first. This will give you a good idea what you can expect to pay at auto auctions online website. Aim to pay at least 20% lower than the price you have found at your local dealerships.
The next thing you should do is to research other similar listings selling same vehicle. In that way, you can compare different sellers and the offers.
The last thing is to look for the vehicle condition. You need to be aware that there might be few problems hidden by the sellers. It will be wise to bring mechanic to inspect the vehicles conditions.
You can start to find the vehicle of your dreams by visiting http://www.bargain-motors.com You can find all models, years, and types of vehicles that fit your budget across United States.
Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com
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