Preparing your car for the winter

With the winter just around the corner this is a good time to prepare your vehicle for the oncoming snows,frosts and what
ever gets thrown at us.

oils and fluids:
Changing fluids on a regular basis is perhaps the most ecinomical way to look after your vehicle,changing the engine oil
every 3-4000 miles,the engine coolant should be diluted 50% with water and the gearbox every couple of years.
A check on a regular basis should also be made of the battery level radiator,steering fluid and the brake levels,
also important with the spray from the salt laden roads is the windshield washer.

Preventing rust:
The best way to prevent rust is to have the vehicle wax oiled from new with the salt from the road attacking any open rust
spot making it a major problem in the future

Tires:
A must is to check on your tires before any bad weather hits , check alignment and tire pressure,not forgetting to rotate them
every 5000 miles or so.Keeping a set of snow chains in the trunk is a good idea,and if it gets to bad many people have snow tires fitted.

Brakes:
Just as important is having reliable brakes,check the brake fluid regularly making sure the brake pads do not wear down scoring the brake drums/discs

Lights:
With bad weather comes dark nights ,so having all the relevant lights working is a must.

Maintain your vehicle regularly to provide years of service with better performance and safety.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

Whats Best For You ,Petrol,Diesel or LPG ?

LPG:
The newcomer to this is LPG (liquefied petroleum gas) this produces less emissions than the other two but consumption is worse.although it is
possible to convert most cars to LPG with some manufacturers producing dual-fuel vehicles,which are designed for LPG with a petrol back-up.
LPG has been seen as a cheaper alternative to Gas & Diesel but it is not as clean as people think with greenhouse gases being released as it is a fossil based fuel.

DIESEL:
Diesel engines have always been seen as slow and noisy, however technology has seen some advances in recent years; for instance Honda has developed their own diesel engine that is designed to be quiet, refined, clean and with instant response – fighting against all the old stereotypes.
It turns out that diesel engines are more economical than petrol ones,with direct-injection being the best on fuel economy.There was a time when diesel
was significantly cheaper than petrol,but now diesel is dearer than petrol.

Petrol:
This fuel type has been the staple form in the car world for years.Petrol engines are generally quiet and smooth, they are responsive and their performance
is good and although being a cleaner fuel than diesel it emits 10% (approx) more carbon monoxide.At the moment there is no single source of fuel which can
compare with petroleum in terms of its instant bulk availability.

On reflection it seems to be the vehicle owners own personal preference which type of fuel thye go for.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

Road Trip Preperation For Your Car

Alot of people have concerns about taking their cars on road trips, especially if their cars are getting on in years or mileage. Amazingly long trips are actually easier on your car than day-to-day driving -- but a breakdown far from home can really ruin your fun. A few simple checks will stave off many common problems. As with most things, it's best to start early.
Two to four weeks before you go, get any major repairs done. If your car needs a major repair or maintenance, do it at least one month before you go. That will allow plenty of time for any problems related to the repair to surface.
Check the coolant. If your destination is a lot warmer or cooler than home, check (or have your garage check) the coolant's mixture of antifreeze and water to make sure the car is properly protected. If the coolant needs to be changed, do it (or have it done) now.
Check the tires. Make sure your tires are inflated to the proper pressure. Low pressure can cause extra heat buildup that can lead to a puncture at high speeds. Follow the instructions for checking tire pressure in your owner's manual. While you're down there, check the tire tread. Place a penny, edge on, in one the grooves of the tire. If you can see the space above Abe's head, it's time for new tires. Also check the tire pressure,if you have the correct pressure this will save you money on gas.
Check the spare tire. Make sure the spare is fully inflated and that the jack, wrench, and other tire-changing bits are in the trunk. If your car has wheel locks, make sure you have the adapter for the lock-nut.
Check the glovebox. Check for the owner's manual and registration. If the manual is missing, consider ordering a replacement before you go. Some automakers have manuals in PDF format on their web sites. Check the registration to make sure it won't expire during your trip. Consider carrying it in your wallet in case the car is stolen.
One week before you go get any scheduled maintenance done. If you think your car is going to come due for an oil change or other maintenance during your trip, get it done now.
Clean out your car. The more stuff you haul, the more fuel you burn. Clean mercilessly. If you're going to the Grand Canyon in the summer, do you really need those snow chains? My rule: If in doubt, take it out. If you miss anything in the next 6 days before your trip, you can always put it back.
Check the air filter. A clogged air filter reduces fuel economy. They're inexpensive and easy to change. If your current air filter has been in the car for more than 10,000 miles, it's time to clean it or change it.
Buy a road atlas. If you don't have a current road atlas, get one. Hours and hours of expressway can get boring. Getting off the beaten path can add an entirely new dimension to your trip.
Join AAA. If you don't have some sort of roadside assistance program, consider joining AAA. They'll tow your car if it breaks, change the tire if it goes flat, jump start the car if the battery dies, open the doors if you get locked out, and give you gas if you run out. An AAA membership will usually pay for itself the first time you run into trouble -- plus you'll get discounts at some roadside motels and restaurants.
One day before you goWash and vacuum your car. Before you pack, give your car a good scrubbing and vacuuming. Clean cars always seem to run better. Besides, who wants to travel in a dirty car?
Fill the gas tank. Might as well get it out of the way now. Besides, gas is often more expensive on the road.
The day of your tripLook at what you've packed. Open your suitcases and take one last look -- do you really need all that stuff? If there's anything you can do without, then do without.
Load evenly and carefully. If you're carrying lots of heavy objects, position them forward in the trunk and distribute the weight evenly side to side. Cars don't have unlimited carrying capacity, so don't overload.
Relax! Unexpected things can happen, but if you've followed these guidelines, you've headed off a lot of potential problems.

Dave Burton
http://www.bargain-motors.com/

Cash or Loan For Your Next Car

Paying cash for a car vs taking out a loan when purchasing a vehicle is a big decision and involves a lot of money. There's always the questions of whether to go used or new, buy or lease, finance through the dealership or the bank or to even pay cash and avoid payments. On the matter of automobile loans it seems like they've really become a part of everyday life; it would almost seem strange not to have a monthly payment. We've become use to the idea of a loan that allows us to enjoy a car sooner than we might have been able to. But how much do we pay for that convenience?So what does taking a 5%, 60-month loan actually costs you over 5 years:With $5,000 down payment with a loan of 5% over 5 yrs equates to a loan balance of about $15,000 = $2,025 in interestWithout the down payment and a starting balance of $20,000 = $2,685 in interestNot a huge difference, but the down payment dropped the monthly payment by $100. In both situations, the cost of the loan would run about 13.5% of the loan value. You can think of that 13.5% as a hidden tax on the car, which is more than the sales tax and other fees that get tacked on. Over a lifetime those interest payments can really add up. Aside from leasing, buying a car outright is your only other option. Why don't we buy new cars with cash more often?Because we are in a "I want it now" world,you could pay $330 dollars each month into a high-yield savings account for 5 years and buy a truck without getting a loan and saving yourself over $2000 dollars and earning interest on your deposit in the process. So why don't you? Mostly because people want a new vehicle sooner than later. You could even have replaced your car with a newer used car .The trade-in acting as a down payment is what keeps this from being outrageous, actually these numbers don't seem too bad. $21,500 in interest payments over a lifetime isn't too big of a deal. To accomplish the task of providing our own financing we have to delay our gratification and save. For the 5 years prior to a car purchase, we deposit the total cost of $60 into a high yield savings account every month, about $333 for a $20,000 car. The interest earned on the savings earmarked for a new car can be transfered to other investments for additional growth after the purchase. So by delaying the first car purchase and continuing that discipline we've saved $21,500 in interest payments, or have we?What would happen if we took every dollar we would be giving to a bank in interest and invested it in a Roth IRA (all contributions and earnings can be pulled out tax-free during retirement). $21,500 over 50 years is $430 a year, $36 a month. That's money we'd normally be giving away so why not invest it instead. Let's say our IRA starts with a $0 balance, grows at 8% and we don't worry about inflation yet.Amount invested = $21,500 Simple earnings = $43,860 Compund earnings = $201,099 Total account value after 50 years = $266,459 .This tho is a hypothetical situation, but the outcome and general idea are pretty clear. By delaying a car purchase and avoiding interest payments we are presented with the opportunity for incredible growth over the long term. Even without investing the difference you can save a good chunk of change. This scenario doesn't take into consideration a longer period between purchases or the possibility of buying used cars, both of which would allow more income to be directed towards investments.This is not the absolute best way to purchase cars, but the hidden costs of automobile loans aren't apparent until you crunch some numbers.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

America's Most Fuel Efficeint Cars

The #1 most efficeint car is the Toyota Prius which returns 48 mpg in the city and 45 mpg on the highway these cost $22,000.

#2 is the Honda Civic Hybrid which gives you 40 mpg city driivng and 45 mpg cruising the highway these will set you back $23,650.

#3 is the Smart ForTwo car this gives you 33 mpg around the city and 41 mpg on the highway costing just $12,235.

#4 VW Jetta Sportswagen TDI (29 mpg city, 40 mpg highway) $23,870
#5 Toyota Camry Hybrid (33 mpg city, 34 mpg highway) $26,150
#6 Toyota Yaris (29 mpg city, 35 mpg highway) $12,205
#7 Mini Cooper (28 mpg city, 37 mpg highway) $19,200
#8 Honda Fit (27 mpg city, 33 mpg highway) $14,750
#9 Chevrolet Aveo5 (27 mpg city, 34 mpg highway) $12,625
#10 Nissan Versa (27 mpg city, 33 mpg highway) $16,100

Dave Burton

www.bargain-motors.com

How to Deal with a Broken Windshield

Getting a broken windshield is not only a nuisance, but could also be dangerous and more importantly it's also illegal. If someone has a broken windshield, they must take steps to have the windshield repaired or replaced immediately. If you have the skill and tools, you can remove the broken windshield and then replace it with a new windshield. You will need to ensure that you have a new or replacement glass ready to go, and can lubricate the hinges. If the hinges need an adjustment be sure to perform that as well. If you don't feel comfortable performing the work, it is important to have a professional complete it instead. Since the windshield is such an invaluable aspect of your vehicle, it must be installed correctly. The replacement glass will also need to be cut to an exact measurement to ensure that it fits perfectly. It's important to keep the hinges of your windshield tight as well as the nuts that are used to keep the windshield securely set in place. If the windshield is not securely fastened, or the nuts and hinges kept tight, you run the risk of having the windshield break or become damaged due to any slight trauma or movement. This will also prevent any annoying rattling from occurring in the windshield, a sign that the windshield is not securely set in place and that the nuts affixing the windshield to the cowl brackets need tightening. When replacing a broken windshield be sure to determine what type of glass is being used in the new windshield as well as the best methods for taking care of it.

Dave Burton

www.bargain-motors.com

Top Tips for Saving Money on Car Parts and Maintainence

Taking care of your car maintenance can be very rewarding if done properly so here's a list of seven top tips that can help you save money on your car parts and service.
1. A well tuned car can have a fuel consumption from 25% to 33% lower than a poorly tuned car making a tune-up cheaper than driving without it, tuning your car for better performance can save you between ${
150 and $300 per year.
2. Regardless of the number of miles the manual recommends a oil change and filter change you should change them every 3,000 miles. This is one of the most important factors in your engine's life since it's going to prolong your engine's life and you're going to save on engine car parts. The potential savings are $500 to $3000.
3. Dirty air filter means more gasoline used and reduces the engine's life so you should check it regularly, maybe monthly. The air filter can be cleaned by blowing it with a hose or can be replaced. You can save about $130 per year..
4. Using steel-belted radial tires can increase the number of miles you make per year by up to 10%, saving this way about $130 per year.
5. Most cars, don't work better on premium gas, so, unless your car is pinging or knocking you shouldn't use higher octane gas. If your car doesn't have a high performance engine, using the gas that best suits your car's engine can save you $200 to $400 per year.
6. Having under inflated tires makes your engine burn about 6% more gas so make sure you check your tire pressure regularly.
7. If your tires are improperly balanced the tread on them will be destroyed. In addition, your suspension and shock absorbers can be damaged leading to more expense on car parts and service. Balancing your tires once a year can add thousands of miles to their life.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

Buying a Car at Auction

Perhaps the most risky way to acquire a used car. Whether you buy privately, or from a car dealer there is no guarantee that you will pay the bottom line price. To do that you would have to buy at an auction. The trouble is, things happen fast at auction, very fast indeed. If you miss one lot, another one will be along in a minute and then another and then another.Not surprisingly auctions are not for everyone. However those who are prepared to do some research and use their common sense they can buy a used car at a wholesale price. That is reason enough to consider making a bid at an auction.The way auctions operateIt is very simple. Vehicles are sold on behalf of the owners, who complete a legally binding form (the Entry Form) which attests to the vehicle's age, mileage and condition. Usually a reserve value is set, which is the lowest figure the seller will accept - the auctioneers cannot sell below this value. Auctions are really the stock market of the used car industry.Often vehicles are categorised;there may be executive and prestige sales, late year and low mileage.On the sale day itself all the vehicles will be lined up by lot order in their correct sale section ready to be sold and can be displayed under cover in well-lit viewing areas or outside. A sale catalogue on the morning of the sale can be used by buyers to help them locate potential purchases. Viewing is normally from 9.00 am, with sales starting at 10.00am on the busiest days. However there are evening and Saturday sales aimed more at the private buyer with cheaper cars although the larger number of buyers can push up prices.When the sale starts vehicles are driven into the auction hall in lot order. The car on sale stops in front of the rostrum and the auctioneer describes it to the buyers. Listen closely to what the auctioneer says: that description is legally binding. They could be warranting the mileage, mentioning any major mechanical faults, the existence of a service history, MOT or whether there is a reserve price.Then the auctioneer will ask for a starting bid on the car. The bidding increments are controlled by the auctioneer reflecting the interest from the auction floor. Typically bidding is done in $100 increments or less (sometimes as low as $10), but it is not unusual for $200, $5,000, or even $1,000 bids on high value cars. Don't worry about sneezing, or scratching your itchy nose. There are all sorts of apocryphal stories of people buying cars by mistake, but in today's professional market, that is never going to happen. Just bid clearly by raising your hand.
What cars go to auction?Just in case you wondered, cars come from either the general public, dealers, company fleets, local authorities or finance companies. The dealers dispose of cars because it is an unsuitable part exchange as it is too old, or just the wrong make. Also the car could be too expensive to put right. Quite simply the car may have been stuck on their forecourt without finding a buyer and the dealer would rather have money in the bank than a depreciating hulk in the showroom.It is much rarer to find ordinary members of the public putting their cars through the auction but they will often do so either because they don't want the hassle of selling privately, or that it has been advertised without finding a seller. Again, there may be something wrong with the car that is uneconomic to put right, or won't show up on its brief drive through the auction ring. That is why you need to be so careful.Another group of vehicles are those classed as stolen/recovered and sold by finance or insurance companies. Often they are damaged, but they can be in perfect condition too. Other sources of auction fodder are the fleet and company cars which are usually no more than two or three years old, often with a high mileage but backed up by a full service history. Vehicles also come from utility companies or the Police. They may have lead a hard life but once again maintenance has usually been a priority.
Choose your auctionFind your auction by looking in the phine books - there may well be more than you imagined. Even the classified section of your local paper. Your first visit must always be your research trip. Leave all your money at home and just watch what goes on. It may frighten you off and for some that might be a good thing. Auctions aren't for nervous types.Get a copy of the Conditions of Sale and Entry and any other information issued by the auctioneers. You will find out what rights you do and don't have especially as rules vary between auction companies.Take a price guide with you which you can buy in the newsagent so that you can see what the vehicles are making compared to the wholesale trade, private or dealer price. Ideally it will be around the trade valuation. But always remembers these guides are just that, guides and some models are more in demand than others.Also private buyers can push prices beyond what a dealer would be prepared to pay. Condition is vital and ultimately a car at auction and anywhere else for that matter is only worth what someone is prepared to pay.
Auction language explainedBefore the sale starts listen carefully to what the auctioneer says and also read any stickers on the car windows carefully.'Without reserve' means that the car will be sold to the highest bidder.'Reserve' is the minimum the seller will want for the car, not usually revealed before sale, unless it has been entered previously and didn't sell. Sometimes the auctioneer may give a clue to the reserve.'As seen' is what you see you get, including all the faults. Some cars fall into this category merely because of the seller's policy.'All good', 'on description' or 'no major mechanical defects' sounds promising, but it only applies to the major components. So although the engine, gearbox, axles, steering, suspension and brakes may be fine, instruments, electrics, tyres and trim may be broken or damaged. Some auctions may offer an insurance backed warranty to cover this.'Warranted all good' actually guarantees that the car is as described with no major mechanical faults, so a warranted mileage and service history. A successful bidder can therefore reject a car if it is not up to these standards.'Specified faults' can be underplayed so a phrase such as 'worn gearbox' could actually mean that it is permanently stuck in second. It is worth bearing in mind that an auctioneer is acting as an agent for the seller and may only know as much about the car as they have been told.
Auction Survival Kit - what to take with you Cash: the minimum amount required to pay a deposit, read the conditions of entry to find out how much.Friend: to stop you making any rash bids, or buying something that you don't need. They can also drive you to the auction so you don't have to pay a delivery charge or make a return visit.Old clothes: after all you will be crawling around getting a closer look won't you? Torch: All the better to look into those nooks and crannies.Magnet: When in doubt about filler rely on the old fridge magnet test. Price guide: Newsagent price guides do what they say.Tool kit/gallon of petrol to help you get the car you bid for home. Don't carry the petrol can around with you.
Buy a catalogueThe cars will be parked together and on the windscreen will be a lot number. This gives some indication of the running order, but don't rely on it. There may also be some information about the car such as make, model, mileage and perhaps a brief engineer's assessment, which may not be binding anyway. Watch out for 'sold as seen' and 'recorded on Vcar register'. Don't pin all your hopes on one lot. It could be withdrawn, you might change your mind, or you might not bid enough to buy it, so draw up a shortlist of lots.
Checking the carThere isn't a lot that you can check. The cars are usually parked so close together that they will restrict your view and mostly they will be locked and won't be started until a few minutes before they go into the auction hall.
Tyres - for their condition tread and brand. Entry form on windscreen - read carefully for major faults warranties and mileage.Lot number - so you know roughly where it will appear in the sale.Bodywork - look for rust, poor repairs and panel alignment.Trim - anything from a cracked windscreen to missing or damaged accessories. Interior - look for wear and tear, best done when the car is in the auction hall. Engine - are there oil leaks where it is parked? Be there when it is started so that you can check for smoke and listen for noises. The auction driver will usually let you pop the bonnet when it is in the auction hall.
How much to bid? Now is the time to set your budget. Look at the guide trade price and bear in mind what similar vehicles made at the previous sales you attended. The questions are what can you afford and more importantly what are you prepared to pay? Obviously there is no point bidding up to what a main dealer would charge for a car with a year's warranty.
Auction Action: our 10 point bidding plan 1. Before your lot is called position yourself near the car you want. Use your friends if the lots you are after are close together.2. Watch the car being started. Does the oil light go on and off quickly? Does it start first time. Does the engine sound healthy? Are there any strange noises. Is there thick black smoke from the exhaust?3. When driven to the auction hall it will join a short queue of cars. Now is your chance to take a good look inside. Maybe ask the driver to pop the bonnet. Make your decision now, do you want to bid for this car?4. If you want to bid place yourself in view of the auctioneer and listen. What they say now is crucial. Listen out for the good points like a warranty and guaranteed mileage and also any negative ones like 'gearbox trouble'.5. Now programme yourself. What is your budget and if you have a friend with you remind them to stop you bidding above that.6. The auctioneer suggests an opening bid and usually it is an optimistically high figure. Don't get sucked in too early. Wait and see what happens.7. When you do bid raise your arm clearly and confidently. Be aware of the margin of the bid: is it $50, $100, or $00 or more? If you want to make your bid less tell the auctioneer. Don't worry if the auctioneer ignores your bid because they usually concentrate only on two bids at a time.8. If you seem to be bidding against someone you can't see, it is permissible for the auctioneer subject to their company rules, to take 'bids off the wall'. They do this to get closer to the reserve price. So don't get carried away and exceed your bidding budget.9. If you drop out of the bidding a shake of the head is sufficient to indicate this to the auctioneer.10. If your bid is successful you will be required to pay an immediate deposit, usually 10% or a fixed sum in cash to the rostrum clerk.
After the sale The balance will need to be paid within a short period usually with 24 hours, or sometimes before the auction closes, by cash, banker's draft or credit/debit card. You may also have to pay an indemnity fee on a sliding scale according to the cost of the vehicle which insures you against the car being stolen an insurance write off, or still on finance. Bear in mind that if you delay in paying the full amount you will probably be charged storage fees, so don't dally.If your bid was successful but it does not exceed the reserve figure set by the seller, the auctioneers will contact them to find out if they will accept less. In the meantime don't bid for another car or you might end up with two!Should the seller make a counter offer the decision is yours, but don't exceed your budget, or pay more than you think it is actually worth.If you have a bought a vehicle that came with a trial, in most cases you will only have one hour after payment to drive the car and find a serious fault. If a car is sold on an independent engineer's report (attached to the windscreen), or 'with no major mechanical faults' then that is exactly how you should expect the car to be. Remember that it is up to you to check the car's overall exterior condition - paintwork, trim, tyres and the interior, seats and carpets - for example - prior to sale. All these factors are 'sold as seen'. CollectionOnce you have paid, the office should be able to give you all the relevant paperwork,service history and registration details, plus a radio front, or anything else removed from the vehicle for security reasons.Before you drive off though make sure that your insurer will cover you. Also remember that whatever the vehicle inspection may say the vehicle has to be roadworthy. One balding tire or a dodgy wiper blade is illegal and ought to be fixed. It is not unknown for the police to lie in wait at the exit of auctions and book unroadworthy vehicles.
When you get the car home sort out any problems as a precaution and unless there is any evidence that it has been done recently you should have the car serviced.
Dave Burton

http://www.bargain-motors.com/

Tips On Making Your Car Fuel Efficient

With gas prices increasing most people that drive are interested in ways they can make their car more fuel efficient and save as much money as possible. While there are no fuel saving tips that will keep your car full of gas without filling up, there are some tips that really can help you save money on fuel over the long run. All of these tips focus on making your car more fuel efficient.

1, Drive When You Start Up ;This might seem obvious, but as soon as you crank up your car you should drive off. However, many people crank up and leave the car idling for a while. Instead of this, when you crank up drive off and only keep your car running when it is absolutely necessary.

2, Don't Ride the Brake; Many drivers hit the brake more often than is necessary. Additionally there are quite a few drivers that slow down for a braking car when they could easily switch lanes. Not riding the brake can increase your fuel efficiency by up to 30%, so this is a great tip you should follow.

3, Turn Off Your Car ;If you are going to be stopping for more than 10 minutes you should switch off your car to keep fuel efficiency at its peak and not burn more gas than is necessary.

4, Don't Turn Off Your Car; If you are only stopping for a brief moment or less than 5 minutes then don't turn off your car because the amount of gas used to crank up is more than you would burn in that short period of time.

5, Inflate Tires Properly; Too many drivers never think of their tires, unless one goes flat. However, having tires that are properly inflated can save fuel and make your car more fuel efficient, saving you money. Because of this, you should check your tire pressure on a regular basis. While gas prices don't seem like they will be dipping considerably in the next few months every tip to help you make your car more fuel efficient is helpful. So, follow the above fuel tips and you will see that over time your car really is more fuel efficient.

Dave Burton

http://www.bargain-motors.com/

RV Fifth Wheel & Travel Trailer Towing Safety

When towing a 5th wheel or travel trailer, safety should be your #1 priority,an accident while towing these will have greater consequences than in a small car.Consider the following safety tips each time you tow your fifth wheel RV or travel trailer.General Travel Trailer and Fifth Wheel RV Towing TipsIf you are new to RV towing, take time to practice towing your travel trailer or fifth wheel before driving on main roads. Most seasoned RVers recommend finding a large vacant lot and setting up some traffic cones to practice turning and backing. Never allow anyone to ride in or on the travel trailer. Before you leave on a trip, remember to check routes and restrictions on bridges and tunnels. Use the trailer hitch system the manufacturer recommends for towing. Drive at moderate speeds. This will place less strain on your tow vehicle and RV trailer. Trailer instability (sway) is more likely to occur as speed increases. Avoid sudden stops and starts that can cause skidding, sliding, or jackknifing. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers that might create sway or undue side force on the travel trailer. Fifth wheels are less susceptible to side force sway but you should still be aware of the possibility. Slow down when traveling over bumpy roads, railroad crossings, and ditches. Make wider turns at curves and corners. Because your trailer’s wheels are closer to the inside of a turn than the wheels of your tow vehicle, they are more likely to hit or ride up over curbs. Parking a Fifth Wheel or Travel TrailerTry to avoid parking on grades. If possible, have someone outside to guide you as you park. Once stopped, but before shifting into Park, have someone place blocks on the downhill side of the trailer wheels. Apply the parking brake, shift into Park, and then remove your foot from the brake pedal. Following this parking sequence is important to make sure your vehicle does not become locked in Park because of extra load on the transmission. For manual transmissions, apply the parking brake and then turn the vehicle off in either first or reverse gear. When uncoupling a travel trailer or fifth wheel, place blocks at the front and rear of the trailer tires to ensure that the trailer does not roll away when the trailer hitch coupling is released. An unbalanced load may cause the tongue to suddenly rotate upward; therefore, before uncoupling, place jack stands under the rear of the trailer to prevent injury. Backing Up Your Fifth Wheel or Travel TrailerPut your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel. To turn left, move your hand left. To turn right, move your hand right. Back up slowly. Because mirrors cannot provide all of the visibility you may need when backing up, have someone outside at the rear of the trailer to guide you, whenever possible. Use slight movements of the steering wheel to adjust direction. Exaggerated steering control will cause greater movement of the travel trailer. If you have difficulty, pull forward and realign the tow vehicle and trailer and start again. Apply the parking brake, shift into Park, and then remove your foot from the brake pedal. Following this parking sequence is important to make sure your vehicle does not become locked in Park because of extra load on the transmission. For manual transmissions, apply the parking brake and then turn the vehicle off in either first or reverse gear. When uncoupling a trailer, place blocks at the front and rear of the trailer tires to ensure that the trailer does not roll away when the coupling is released. In smaller trailers an unbalanced load may cause the tongue to suddenly rotate upward; therefore, before uncoupling, place jack stands under the rear of the trailer to prevent injury. Braking While Towing a Fifth Wheel or Travel TrailerAllow considerably more distance for stopping. If you have an electric trailer brake controller and excessive sway occurs, activate the trailer brake controller by hand. Do not attempt to control trailer sway by applying the tow vehicle brakes; this will generally make the sway worse. Always anticipate the need to slow down. To reduce speed, shift to a lower gear and press the brakes lightly. Acceleration and Passing While Towing Your Travel Trailer or Fifth WheelWhen passing a slower vehicle or changing lanes, signal well in advance and make sure you allow extra distance to clear the vehicle before you pull back into the lane. Pass on level terrain with plenty of clearance. Avoid passing on steep upgrades or downgrades. If necessary, downshift for improved acceleration or speed maintenance. When passing on narrow roads, be careful not to go onto a soft shoulder. This could cause your trailer to jackknife or go out of control. To control swaying caused by air pressure changes and wind buffeting when larger vehicles pass from either direction, release the accelerator pedal to slow down and keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. When excessive sway occurs, activate the trailer brake controller by hand. Do not attempt to control trailer sway by applying the tow vehicle brakes; this will generally make the sway worse. Towing Your Fifth Wheel or Travel Trailer on Downgrades and UpgradesDownshift to assist with braking on downgrades and to add power for climbing hills. On long downgrades, apply brakes at intervals to keep speed in check. Never leave brakes on for extended periods of time or they may overheat. Some tow vehicles have specifically calibrated transmission tow-modes. Be sure to use the tow-mode recommended by the manufacturer.
Dave Burton

http://www.bargain-motors.com/

Car Rentals On Overseas Vacation

Renting a car for a week or two is no problem. Thanks to the Internet it can be done from the comfort of your home and within minutes. But actually getting the right car for your needs can be difficult. The very concept of "car" is radically different between North America and Europe. Whereas in the US and Canada size really matters, Europeans look for fuel economy and have cramped parking conditions in mind. Here are some hints on choosing the right car when renting.Transmission - Not Automatically AutomaticThe very first thing to bear in mind is the transmission. Whereas most rental cars in North America will be equipped with automatic transmission, manual transmission is the norm in Europe. In addition the gearshift will be to the left of the driver. If you are not familiar with a manual transmission be sure to ask for an automatic. Be prepared for an extra charge at some rental agencies. And remember that the "exotic" automatic transmissions may sell out fast, so book early.Fuel Costs - Don't WorryAs said before, European drivers are obsessed with fuel efficiency. One look at the price of gas in Europe, will explain this obsession to US visitors - expect to pay twice the price you are used to. But fuel efficiency of rental cars should normally be great, even for the larger vehicles. Which ultimately makes driving in Europe not a hugely expensive way of travel.Interior Space - Small BlessingsMost rental cars on offer are standard European or Japanese vehicles, built for cramped road conditions and comparatively short journeys. Especially the lower categories ("Sub-Compact" and "Compact") are typical "city cars" for the occasional user. Even "Mid-Size" in Europe would be rated "Compact" in the US. So expect tighter conditions and choose a larger vehicle if travelling long distances.Seats and Legroom - Be Prepared for SurprisesCars are smaller and Europeans are used to them. This combined leads to the ratings on rental car websites. An international supplier will offer the same size of vehicle with totally different suitability ratings. On the US website rated for two adults and two children, on the Euro website rated for five adults. If you are in any way larger than the average European (5 ft 7 in, 165 pounds) go for a larger vehicle. Some rental companies will tell you equivalent US vehicles to help you choose.The Trunk - Which Trunk?Luggage space in European and Japanese cars can be tight. "Sub-Compact" and "Compact" vehicles will more than likely be of the hatchback type with no actual trunk and a somewhat cramped storage area in the back. Getting four adults and their luggage into a "Sub-Compact" is nearly impossible. If you are planning to take your full baggage allowance go for a "Mid-Size" at least. Do not plan on leaving your luggage in view while touring, this will attract undesirable attention.Extras - You Don't Need ThemWhen looking up European rental cars you might notice that air conditioning or cruise control are not necessarily included in the specifications. You will not really miss them. While air conditioning can occasionally be nice during the European summer, cruise control would be of no practical use at all.

Dave Burton

www.bargain-motors.com

Freeway Driving

America's freeways, are perfect for getting from one place to another very quickly. Because of the high rates of speed allowed on these routes, it's imperative to follow good freeway driving etiquette so as to avoid impeding the flow of traffic. Here are a few basic steps to follow from the time you enter the freeway until you exit.

Accelerate gradually as you enter the freeway. Traffic is already moving at 55mph to 70mph so this isn't a time for sightseeing. The on-ramp usually gives you enough time and space to catch up with flow of traffic.
Merge left into one of the center lanes. Because the right lane is for slower traffic and those entering or exiting the freeway, you must use the center lanes for travel. Be sure to keep up with the flow of traffic in the center lanes when freeway driving.
Use the left lane for passing only. Once you have completed passing, merge right into one of the center lanes and resume travel. The left lane is not for cruising.
Merge into the right lane to exit the freeway. You will use this lane to gradually decrease your speed and prepare for using the surface roads

If you are cruising in the left lane rather than passing, someone behind you may blow their horn or flash their headlights. Don't get upset. This just means they want to pass and you are probably driving at the same speed as center lane drivers. Simply merge into the center lane and continue driving. This is good freeway driving etiquette and allows other vehicles to use the passing lane for its intended purpose.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

Emergency Breakdown Kit

Is this ever happened to you ? your driving along its 10.30 at night and the rain is lashing down,then bang something happenes to your car and it comes to a halt.You get out the car and see the left rear tire is flat and you're already running on your spare.
If you have an account with the Auto Club and your cell phone works,your in luck, help is not far away. BUT if not, you're either faced with having to hail a passing motorist or spend a night in the motor. That is, unless you have a well-stocked emergency roadside kit in the trunk of your car.
When it comes to commuting or traveling any lengthy distance, a roadside emergency kit can mean the difference between getting back on the road or being stuck for a long period of time. A roadside emergency kit is the one item that every vehicle should have; yet most of us never carry any of the basic items to help you get back on the road quickly and safely.

Some of the basic items include:
12-foot jumper cables
Four 15-minute roadside flares
Two quarts of oil
Gallon of antifreeze
First aid kit (including an assortment of bandages, gauze, adhesive tape, antiseptic cream, instant ice and heat compresses, scissors and aspirin)
Blanket
Extra fuses
Flashlight and extra batteries
Flat head screwdrivers
Phillips head screwdrivers
Pliers
Vise Grips
Adjustable wrench
Tire inflator (such as a Fix-A-Flat)
Tire pressure gauge
Rags
Roll of paper towels
Roll of duct tape
Spray bottle with washer fluid
Pocketknife
Ice scraper
Pen and paper
Help sign
Granola or energy bars
Bottled water
and heavy-duty nylon bag to carry it all in.
Granted, all these items practically necessitate a Ford Truck to haul them down the road, but a basic version with two roadside flares, a quart of oil, small first aid kit, extra fuses, flashlight, a Leatherman Tool (or any other multipurpose tool commonly containing pliers, wire cutters, knife, saw, bottle opener, screwdrivers, files and an awl), tire inflator, rags, pocket knife, pen and paper and a help sign will take up a minimal amount of trunk space.
Safe Travelling

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

Safe Travelling On Vacation

The main thing to do before travelling on vacation is to spend a few minutes checking out your important vehicle systems before hitting the road to prevent your vacation travel from turning into a hassle.
The main concern is arriving safely at your destination.While winter weather, increased traffic, driver fatigue and shortened daylight hours can make driving more hazardous over the holidays, a poorly maintained vehicle shouldn't be added to that list of potential driving hazards.Therefore performing a simple vehicle safety check is neccesary.

Front windshield.
3/4 of all accidents that occur during severe weather are due to impaired visibility,its recommended to get new wiper blades every six months,and switching to high-quality winter blades in areas where snow and ice are expected.
Every vehicle should be equipped with an emergency kit that includes a flashlight, flares or reflective triangles, blanket, food bars, water, cell phone and charger, and a first aid kit.
LIGHTS
Its just as important to see as it is to be seen on the road,its recommended to check all vehicle lights, including headlights, taillights, marker bulbs, fog lights and interior lights.To make sure your turn signals and your brake lights are in working order have someone stand at the back of your car,turn your lights and blinkers on so your assistant can see that they are operating as they should.If the bulbs are not working as they should you can replace any that have burned out or are fading. Check your headlights too, both the low beams and the high beams. You want to make sure other vehicles on the road can see you coming. It is always handy to keep some fuses in your glove compartment. You never know when you may need one.
TIRES:
Check tire tread depth and look for signs of irregular wear. Measure tire pressure when the tires are cold. Inflate the tires to the pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer - information that can be found on the driver's side door posthandbook or manual - but never exceed the maximum inflation pressure printed on the tire sidewall. Proper tire pressure ensures maximum traction, fuel economy, handling, and stopping power.If you see your tires are wearing unevenly you can rotate them, which means switching the back tires to the front and the front tires to the back of the car. If you see wear patterns you may also need to get your car aligned,you also want to make sure you have a spare tire, or a donut tire, and the proper jack and equipment you will need to change a tire.

* Clean all mirrors and adjust them to cover as much of the "blind spot" as possible.

* Strap down all cargo. Even in low-speed accidents, gift boxes and travel supplies become projectiles inside the vehicle.

Always make sure your vehicle has working seatbelts for each passenger. Not all state require drivers and passengers to use seat belts. If your driving through different states during your holiday travel you may want to check the laws of the states you will be driving through. Ignorance of a law will not save you from a ticket if you are stopped.Accidents can happen even if you have checked and prepared your car for your holiday road trip. If you are involved in an accident your seat belts and/or car seats will help to reduce the chances of your being seriously injured.Just in case of an accident, put a disposable camera in your glove compartment. If you need to you will be able to take pictures of the accident scene for your insurance company. Be sure to carry your registration and insurance papers in the glove box as well.A pen and some paper can be of help if you need to exchange insurance and license information with someone. You will also be able to write down the details of the accident so you don't forget any details.
To ensure your vacation travel plans run smoothly you need to plan and make a little effort. The last thing you would want to happen is to have your car break down, so give your vehicle a little attention before you leave.You should give your car a complete going over. Give your car an oil change. While your at it check all the fluids including your transmission fluid, brake fluid and your windshield wiper fluid.While your working under the hood of your car check the hoses for signs of wear. If the hoses in your engine look worn, have them replaced. You don't want them to break down during your trip.
Today most of us have cell phones and carry them with us at all times. Remember to charge your cell phone or to bring your charger. For road travel it is a good idea to have a battery charger that can plug into your cigarette lighter. You don't want to get caught breaking down on the road with a dead cell phone.If you don't have a cell phone you can purchase one that has prepaid minutes already on it. You won't have to sign a contract for this type of phone and when the minutes run out, you can dispose of the phone or pay to have more minutes put on it.
Once you've completed the safety check, you can then focus on maximizing fuel economy, even though your vehicle may be loaded down with people and or presents, by having a clean air filter and by adding fuel injector cleaner to the vehicle's gas tank prior to departure is recomended.

If you are going to be one of the thousands of people traveling the roads for the holidays in your own car, rather than a rental vehicle, make sure you have done all you can to prepare your car for the trip. Car maintenance and repair will help to insure your vacation trip is a happy and successful journey.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

Undersealing Your Car

The first thing to do is give the vehicle an initial inspection and assessment.Then it is important to clean the underside of the vehicle, removing all dirt and loose rust or flaking underseal/paint. Any plastic, inner wheel arch covers should be carefully removed at this point to gain access to the areas behind - which are often secretly harbouring months, if not years of mud and dirt accumulation.
Then the brakes and exhausts should be carefully masked up before it is coated with durable, black, rust inhibiting underseal.
Underseal is a thick resilient coating which protects against impact damage from small stones, which would rapidly chip ordinary paint, allowing rusting to begin.
A bitumen-based compound was used originally, but after approximately a decade this becomes brittle and water can become trapped between the underseal and body metal, ironically creating a more favourable environment for rust than if no underseal was applied at all. Wax-based underseals do not have this disadvantage but can be eroded and eventually washed off by enthusiastic use of a hot pressure washer. Rubber-based underseals are also sometimes used.
Waxoyl is also advised to be injected into all the crossmembers.All the necessary interior trim is carefully removed. Rust inhibiting cavity wax is then applied at high pressure inside every box section such as the pillars, doors, sills and boot etc.Sometimes it maybe neccessary to drill a small hole to enable the waxoyl to be injected into the cavitys that are otherwise impossible to get to,then these are sealed with a small black, plastic plug to retain a standard appearance.
When the treatment is complete, any necessary parts are unmasked. Any removed trim is carefully refitted and any overspray would be cleaned from the bodywork.

This results in a neat, weather proof 'factory look' finish
The process usually takes around 8 hours - depending upon the vehicle size, type, condition and preparation time required. Please note however that larger vehicles may require slightly longer than a day to complete.
The benefits of a complete treatment include:are peace of mind in the knowledge that your car is protected,your car retains its highest possible resale value,reduced maintenance & repair bills
and reduced road noise (‘drumming’)

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

Online Auctions

In times of recession more people are looking for vehicle auctions online. It is commom knowledge that you can get the lowest price for any vehicle that you want through an online vehicle auction website.

Used Vehicle Dealers

Used vehicle dealers have been using vehicle online auctions websites to find a bargain. Most often they can find a great vehicle at a cheap price that they then sell again at their dealerships to get a high profit.

1. The Top Tips at Auctions

The secret is to know what you are dealing with. Once you make a bid, all bids are considered final. Before you make a bid you need to join the auto auctions online websites.

There are free auction websites such as www.bargain-motors.com and paid websites such as Car Online Auctions where you can access a database containing car auctions across United States. There is one story where one client saved over $8000 buying car through Car Online Auctions.

2. What You Should Do?

The first thing you should do is to research the price at your local dealerships first. This will give you a good idea what you can expect to pay at auto auctions online website. Aim to pay at least 20% lower than the price you have found at your local dealerships.

The next thing you should do is to research other similar listings selling same vehicle. In that way, you can compare different sellers and the offers.

The last thing is to look for the vehicle condition. You need to be aware that there might be few problems hidden by the sellers. It will be wise to bring mechanic to inspect the vehicles conditions.

You can start to find the vehicle of your dreams by visiting http://www.bargain-motors.com You can find all models, years, and types of vehicles that fit your budget across United States.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

Driving in the Snow

When Driving in the snow make sure that your car is well maintained, plan your route carefully and check the latest weather forecast.
Keep a full petrol tank. It may be necessary to change routes or turn back during a bad snow storm.
It's also a good idea to keep a breakdown kit (warning triangle, torch, blanket, chocolate bar and a shovel) in your car in case of emergency. Membership of a breakdown service is also advised.
The first fall of snow is very dangerous if the roads have not been gritted. Once gritted, there should be enough grip for careful driving, but it's when snow becomes compacted and refrozen overnight that the greatest care must be taken. Ungritted roads will become impassable by most vehicles and even gritted surfaces can remain extremely slippery.
Keep your windshield and windows clear.Keep a ice scraper handy, and use the car defroster or a clean cloth to keep the windows free of mist
Allow more distance between your vehicle and the vehicle ahead. At least TEN seconds.
If your vehicle skids, don't hit the brakes! Ease off the accelerator and steer slightly into the direction of the skid until you gain control. Turn with steady rather than jerky motions.
An equally common problem is getting stuck in the snow. Your wheels spin but your car goes nowhere. This is when emergency equipment is most important. Don't continue to spin your wheels; you'll only wind up in a deeper rut. Instead, pour sand, salt or gravel around the drive wheels to give them something to grab onto and improve traction ( An old piece carpet is ideal). You can also shovel snow away from the wheels and out from under the car to clear a pathway.
Ice is even more dangerous, because the thicker it is, the harder it is to see. When running or standing water freezes on the road, it forms black ice. This can linger in the shadows cast by trees and buildings throughout an otherwise sunny day. So if there has been a sharp frost overnight, be careful, especially when driving through shadows that keep the sun off corners and roundabouts.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

Save Fuel and Save Money

The best time to think about saving fuel is before buying a car. Generaly,the smaller the car the less gas it will use. And since insurance and taxes are also greater in large cars, it may be sensible to buy a small car if you care about the money. Also, among the bigger cars, some are better than others. All you have to do is relate the miles per gallon figure that comes with it. Sports cars, are the best way to get rid of your money fast, and automatic transmission vehicles are a good way of wasting a lot of it.
But thats obvious. The interesting thing is how to make a car which you already have in your garage, go further on every single gallon. As a rule, you can improve fuel efficiency by as much as 25% simply by the way you drive the car, provided that your car has a manual gearbox.
Here's what you do: Try to change the gears (up) without the engine going to high RPM - certainly not over 2.5k RPM (2500 rounds per minute). I know a lot of people extend first,second and sometimes even third gear more than that because they want to accumulate speed. This may get you to the next traffic light before the car on the other lane, but there's a price to be paid - paid with a currency called petrol.

As long as you change the gears early you're pretty much maximizing the fuel efficiency of your motorcar. One last tip: Stay away from traffic and don't crawl (using the cluctch) too much. In other words, driving in the city is wasteful where fuel is concerned.

These are the cars that use the least amount of gas (highest mileage per gallon). Figures show MPG City and Highway.

Most Fuel Efficient Overall

Honda Insight - 60 66

Most Efficient Minicompact Cars

MINI Cooper Manual(5) - 28 36
MINI Cooper Automatic(variable) - 26 34

Most Efficient Subcompact Cars

VW New Beetle (Diesel) Manual(5) - 37 44
VW New Beetle (Diesel) Automatic(6) - 35 42

Most Efficient Compact Cars

Honda Civic Hybrid Automatic(variable) - 49 51
VW Golf (Diesel) Manual(5) - 37 44

Most Efficient Midsize Cars

Toyota Prius (Hybrid) - 60 51
Hyundai Elantra 4 cyl, Manual(5) - 27 34

Most Efficient Large Cars

Hyundai Sonata 4 cyl, Manual(5) - 24 34

Hyundai Sonata 4 cyl, Automatic(4) - 24 33

Most Efficient Small Station Wagons

Pontiac Vibe 4 cyl, Manual(5) - 30 36
Toyota Matrix 4 cyl, Manual(5) - 30 36
Scion xB 4 cyl, Automatic(4) - 30 34

Most Efficient Midsize Station Wagons

Ford Focus Station Wagon 4 cyl, Manual(5) - 26 34
Ford Focus Station Wagon 4 cyl, Automatic(4) - 26 32

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

How to Choose the Battery for your Car

Replacing your car battery can save you money with attention for the proper disposal of your old one.
The car battery is the first point of power under your hood of your car. It provides electricity needed for lights,entertainment,electric windows and other car accessories.If your battery dies so does your vehicle.
Rrecycling stations and automotive supply stores give you ample oppotunities for disposal of your old battery.

There are 5 major things to consider when choosing a car battery:
1,Age
2,Cold-cranking amps
3,Size
4,Brand
5,Reserve capacity

1,Age
The age of the battery gives you an idea on how long it should be able to perform. A battery is considered ‘fresh' if it is less than 6 months old.
Look for the manufacturing date. Most date codes are stamped on the battery case or label. Important battery information usually starts with 2 characters:
Letter - indicates the month (Example: A is January; B is February; C is March...), and
Digit - indicates the year (Example: 9 for 1999, 0 for 2000, 1 for 2001...)

2,Cold-Cranking Amps:
Cold-cranking amps (CCA) measure the battery's ability to start your car even on an extremely cold weather. During freezing condition, your car will be hard to start (or to ignite) because the car's engine oil thickens and chemical reactions, in turn, slow down.
The cold-cranking amps also refer to the number of amps a battery will be able to support for 30 seconds at 0 degree temperature (until battery voltage reaches below minimum level).
Choosing a battery with a high number of CCA is better; particularly to those vehicles being driven in a cold climate. A higher cold- cranking amps assure that your car's engine will start obediently even on snowy mornings.
Car Battery - is a type of battery that can be recharged. Its main purpose is to supply electricity to a vehicle. Car battery is also referred as an SLI battery. Starting-Lighting-Ignition: to give power to the starter motor, the lights, and the ignition system of a car engine.
Cranking (starting) - also known as shallow cycle type, intended to release rapid surges of energy to start a vehicle's engine.
Obviously, you won't have to bother with much CCA if you're living in a tropical or warm climate. Since the sole purpose of your car battery is to spurt electricity to crank your car's engine and also to supply power other car's accessories.

Difference between CCA and CA
CCA (cold-cranking amps) - indicate how much electrical power the car battery can deliver to the car's starter engine, at zero degree Fahrenheit.
CA (cranking amps) - This is another measure of electric current in the battery, taken at 32 degrees Fahrenheit or at freezing point. When seen on battery case or label, the CA rating is usually higher than the CCA rating.
Tips on Choosing the Suitable Cold-Cranking Amps Rating for your Car Battery:
Check your owner's manual and follow the CCA rating specified for your car battery.
Do not choose batteries with CCA rating which is much lower or much higher to the rating recommended by your car's manufacturer, as well as those CCA rating of 200 amps or more.
If both your car's battery brand and exact CCA rating level are not available, you may choose a bit higher (not much and not lower) your car's CCA requirements.

Different Group Sizes for Different Car Models:
Size 75 - General Motors cars;
Size 65 - big-bodied Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars;
Size 35 - latest Honda, Nissan, and Toyota cars;
Size 34 - Chrysler cars; and
Size 34/78 - with 2 sets of terminals to fit some Chrysler and some General Motor models.

3,Size
Size or Group Size refers to the height, width and length of the battery. They come in different group sizes to fit most car's battery tray. It is important that the battery should fit snugly and securely. Always refer to your car manufacturer's manual to know your car's specific battery group size. You may also consult the reference guides, which battery retailers provide, find out the appropriate battery size for your car.
Buying a wrong-sized battery will just be a waste of money and might just set off more damage to your car.
In the States, a new car battery might cost up to $200, or more. To save money more efficiently: it is best to do a research for battery prices first before buying. Also learn to remove and to install your own car battery, to save on the installation fee.

4,Brand
Brand refers to the trademark given to a certain product. Sometimes it is the same with the manufacturer's name (i.e. Exide company produces batteries with same name).
Buying the battery brand specified in your owner's manual is the best way. But if that particular brand is too expensive and you want to do some cost-cutting, follow the specification requirement also found in the owner's manual.
Do not be tempted to buy the cheapest brand because it could turn as the most expensive battery you've ever bought. Cheap batteries may also be loaded with defects and can also be poor performers. A frequent battery change, which also entails repeated installation, will just definitely sucks up the money you've initially saved when you chose a cheap car battery.

Battery Service Centers that Install and Sell Reasonably-Priced Car Batteries:
Firestone
Goodyear
Pep Boys
Sears

4, Battery Manufacturers and their Battery Brands:
Delphi - AC Delco and some EverStart;
Exide - Champion, Exide, Napa, and some EverStart; and
Johnson Controls Industries - Diehard (Sears), Duralast (AutoZone), Interstate, Kirkland (Costco), Motorcraft (Ford), and some EverStart.


You can also buy car batteries from local service stations and tune-up shops; however, the selection is limited and the stocks may not be fresh.
Battery Stores that Sell Very Low-Priced Car Batteries but sometimes No-Install:

Kmart
Target
Trak Auto
Wal-Mart
Sam's Club

5,Reserve capacity rating (RC) refers to the battery's ‘standing power'. This is the amount of minutes the battery can continuously supply minimum voltage needed to run a car should the car's alternator or fan belt fail. With an excellent reserve capacity rating, your car can run on the battery alone when the alternator stops working.
The RC rating of a battery is listed in minutes. You may not find the RC rating on the battery because it is not usually printed on the label. Check the product literature or ask the store assistant to find out the true RC rating of a particular battery.
The longer the operating time of the battery' reserve capacity, the better; because this is the one quality of the battery that could save you from getting stranded. Consider the RC rating as your car's emergency kit. In times of unexpected trouble, you can still run to safety instead of getting stuck somewhere.

IMPORTANT: You cannot just pick and buy a battery with the longest reserve capacity you can find. Consult your owner's manual to learn the recommended reserve capacity rating for your particular car model. It is best practice to choose the exact RC rating that your vehicle can handle.

If you see this date code on a battery ‘L8', which means December 2008, grab this battery because it is really fresh. (It's only 4 months old, if you're buying this April 2009.)

More Tips on Car Batteries:
Warranty-covered cars and trucks - If your battery is covered by your vehicle warranty, go to your car dealer to claim some discounts. You must check thoroughly that everything is in order before buying though. Otherwise, the discount you got will be paid for purchase and re-installation fee of replacement battery.
Older models of cars and vehicles which should be beyond their warranties must go to any service centers which could cater to all your battery needs at reasonable prices. If you have no choice but go to your car dealer, prepare a higher budget for your new automotive battery because these services tend to be more expensive.
Do not install used batteries. It will be extremely dangerous.
When your car coughed during start-up, pull over to a garage and ask a mechanic to ‘load' your battery. It should be able to hold a charge properly.
At first sign of battery trouble, start scouting around for a new car battery. You won't get a good buy when you're stranded with a dead car battery.
A new car will normally need a battery change after more than 3 years.
If your battery's the unsealed type, you must add water to avoid drying up. Here's how to put water in the battery: twist open the cap and top up with distilled water. This will give your battery a longer life.
Put back the battery hold properly to secure the car battery on its tray, if your car has one.
Car batteries are NOT ‘maintenance free'. You must check the battery regularly. Keep the terminals, cables, and connectors clean and free from corrosion. Here's how to clean the battery: use a wire brush and baking soda/water mixture to scrub away the growth of whitish, greenish, and bluish stuff on the battery terminals.
Check the battery connections. Make sure that the cables and posts are well connected. To keep off corrosion much longer, rub a bit of petroleum jelly to each battery posts. This will help the cable slip back easily.
Carry a portable battery charger inside your car for emergency use, but be sure to know how to use the gadget.
‘Jump starting' a dying battery is known to save a car battery-and some money, too; but do not attempt this without complete knowledge on the correct procedure. Wrong wiring connections will cause damage to engine control and other electronic parts of your car.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

Which Tires Should i Choose?

Choosing new tires for your car can be a complete minefield if you've never done it before. When you're considering which tires you need to get, you need to consider factors such as performance, price, brand, comfort, appearance and safety. But how do you know which tires are the 'right' ones for your car?

New Cars vs Used Cars
If you bought the car from new, it's a safe bet that you can just replace the old tires with the same type that the car came with. However if the car was used when you bought it, you can't be sure that the previous owner has chosen the correct type of tires on the vehicle you purchased.

If you are buying a used car, it's a good idea to do your research and make sure that the car you are buying has the correct tires fitted. If not, replacing them all with the right type once you own the car would be a good idea.

When looking at new cars, different kinds of vehicle will come with different tyres. 4x4's, trucks, cars and high performance cars will all come with tires specific to the individual vehicle. These tires are great for a variety of conditions, will last for differing lengths of time and will cost varying amounts of money to replace.


What Kind of Tires?
You need to make sure that you know what kind of tires your car will need when it comes to replacement time, and make sure that you do change them as soon as the time comes (or slightly earlier if possible).

You can change the tires on your vehicle to another type, but you really do need to do your research first and make sure that the new type is suitable for the vehicle you wish to fit them to.

Where you live can affect your tire choice. Conditions such as frequent rain, snow, heavy winter weather or extreme heat can all affect the type of tire that you need to use. In the America where the weather varies hugely from state to state, you will find that car manufacturers equip their vehicles with tires that are well-suited to the conditions in that particular area.

Different tire types vary hugely in function as well as price. High performance tires are usually quite expensive and wear out more quickly, so are not necessarily worth the extra cash - it depends on your priorities. There are all season tires, performance all season tires, ultra-high performance tires, winter tires and tires made especially for suv's to name a few. If you drive a high-performance sporty car you might not worry in the slightest about having to buy expensive tyres to keep this car up to scratch. On the other hand, if you need a suv to get through farmland, or sludgy mud-strewn roads to get the kids to school, you should appreciate when you buy the car that the tires are going to be expensive to maintain.


When Should I Replace Them?
How do you know when it's time to replace your tires? In the USA, the legal limit for minimum depth of the tread on your tyres is 2/32", across the central ¾ of the tread going around the complete circumference of the tire.

If your tire treads drop below this level you could face a penalty
Tires are made with tread wear indicators in the grooves along the tread to help drivers see when their tires are nearing the legal limit. Although the legal limit is 2/32", most motor safety organizations suggest that the tIres should be replaced when the tread depth reaches 4/32" as it is recognised across the country that the current legal limit isn't really sufficient to protect drivers caught up in adverse driving conditions.


Should I Get a Professional Opinion?
Of course if you're not confident about your choices, or you're not sure about which tIres to get for your car, speak to a professional. That's what they're there for, and if you go to a reputable company, they will be able to point you in the right direction.

Finally, remember that if you do change your tIres to something more high performance, you may need to inform your insurance company as it can sometimes affect the price of your premium, though whether this is the case should be outlined by your insurance provider in your policy documents.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com

What To Do In The Event Of An Accident

What to do if you have a Car Accident
If you’re involved in an accident, it is important to get as much information as possible. If you are injured or in a state of shock, there is still information you can provide by returning to the scene of the accident as soon as possible and jotting down a few pointers.
This will assist your claim by helping both your insurance company and solicitor obtain the best possible outcome at a later date. It is advisable to carry a pen, paper and disposable camera (altho most new phones have camera's nowadays) in your car to help you to accurately record the accident details.
Information to collect if possible at the time of incident
Contact details including names, addresses and telephone numbers of drivers, pedestrians and passengers involved. If a party is driving within the course of his employment, take both the driver and the employer's details. It may be worth noting a description of the driver, location and any distinguishing features
Time and date of the accident
Gather as many vehicle details including vehicle make, model, registration number, color, any modifications and if relevant, the number of passengers in each vehicle
Whether the parties were using headlights and/or indicator lights
The weather, visibility and lighting conditions, including street lighting
Name, "collar number" and force details of any police officer attending and other emergency services details if appropriate
Identify the damage to each vehicle involved.
Identify any injuries to persons involved
If you have a camera, take some photographs of the accident scene
Useful information to jot down at the time or after the accident;
A full description of what happened including sketches of the vehicles’ positioning.
Estimated speed of the vehicles involved
The type of road
A description of the scene of the accident, including any relevant road markings, signals, obstructions etc (i.e. skip outside property at road junction)
Whether the parties were using headlights or indicator.
Reporting;
It is an offence to refuse to give details to the other driver following an accident, if there has been injury or property damage
Accidents must be reported to the police within 24 hours
Inform your insurance company of the accident as quickly as possible. The company may refuse to insure you if you have not notified them of the accident within the time period set out in the policy.

Dave Burton
www.bargain-motors.com