Safe Tips to Change a Car Tyre

How to change a tyre
Tools required:
Spare wheel with inflated tyre
Tyre jack
Wheel brace
Wheel chocks (or brick/large stone)
Warning triangle

If you experience a puncture whilst driving, slow down to no more than 5mph, and drive yourself to a safe place away from other traffic – ideally a lay-by or car parking space, and preferably near a light if it is dark. You may need to park the car on the other side of the road to get the side of the punctured tyre out of the way of the traffic, but DO NOT attempt to change a tyre yourself on the hard shoulder of any busy road – call emergency services for this, the risk is too great.

Ensure the car is parked on level ground, and remove all passengers from the car to a safe place away from any traffic.

Step 1:
Double check you've applied the handbrake. If you have a manually geared car put it into gear, if you have an automatic put it into "Park".

Step 2:
Turn off your engine and put your hazard warning lights on. If you have one, put down a warning triangle down about 30 meters away. Opening your bonnet can also help indicate to other drivers that you are making repairs on the vehicle.

Step 3:
Check that your spare tyre is suitably inflated, and make sure you have your wheel jack and wheel brace, the tool you'll need for getting the wheel off (pictured), – all should usually be in the boot.

Step 4:
On the diagonally opposite wheel to the flat one, place a wheel chock (available from all car part stores) or a brick/large stone either behind or in front of the wheel to prevent the car from rolling down hill. If you are in doubt about which direction has the more incline, put chocks on either side of the wheel. Do this even if you are sure you're on a level surface.

Step 5:
If you have one, remove the hubcap or plastic cover concealing the wheelnuts. (You may need to use your wheel brace or a large screwdriver to prize this off.

Step 6:
With the car still on the ground, use the wheel brace to loosen the nut holding the wheel in place by turning it in an anti-clockwise direction, for half a turn.

This can be the worst bit, as the nuts can be extremely tight. You will probably need to use all your body weight to loosen them – but BE CAREFUL OF YOUR BACK! Bending your knees and pulling is better for your back, and you may need to extend the arm of your wheel brace by attaching an extra tube to it for added leverage. If you still do not have the strength, place your foot on the left handle of the wheel brace (without any extensions on it) and use your body weight to drop the handle to the floor carefully while supporting yourself using the roof of your car.

Step 7:
Continue to loosen all the nuts by half a turn – first loosen one then loosen the one opposite, working across the tyre until all the nuts are loosened slightly.

Step 8:
Check your owners' manual for the correct place to put the jack nearest to the wheel you are changing. Only use the recommended place – anywhere else can be dangerous and cause collapse.
Start to jack up the car, as soon as there is enough room, but before the wheel is off the ground, place the spare tyre under the body of the car to add extra support just in case the jack slips.
Continue to jack the car up a bit higher than is necessary to remove the flat wheel as you will need enough room to fit the fully inflated spare.

Step 9:
Finish removing all the nuts and place them somewhere safe. The wheel with the flat tyre should be hanging from the threaded studs now.

Step 10:
Remove the flat wheel from its threaded studs and put it in the place of the spare under the body of the car.

Step 11:
Lift the spare onto the wheel studs. (To check you're fitting it the right way round, check that the air valve is facing out.

Step 12:
Replace the nuts, tightening them in the same pattern as you loosened them.

Step 13:
Remove the old tyre from under the body of the car, and slowly lower the jack and remove it.

Step 14:
Tighten the nuts again – as much as you can (standing on the arm of the wheel brace might again be helpful – but this time in a clockwise direction)

step 15:
Replace the hubcap or wheel cover.

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BUYING A USED CAR

Buying a Second-hand Car?

What to do

Don't pay more than the advertised price
Take someone with you when you go to view, preferably someone who knows about cars
Use the checklist attached to this leaflet
Clocked cars

Clocking cars is a way of reducing miles shown on the car's odometer. In some cases, it is difficult to tell whether the indicated mileage is true or false.

Look out for:

Excessive wear on the pedal rubbers, gear shift and steering wheel
A sagging seat or worn driver's seat cover and worn carpets on the driver's side
Excessive damage from stone chippings
Are the numbers on the odometer lining up?
Check the mileage on the car against the Service records
What to check before you buy

Check that the person selling the car really owns it. Ask to see the vehicle registration document and if it is a private sale, make sure the seller's name and address appears on it. Ask the seller for proof of identity
If it is a trade seller, check with the previous owner whether the vehicle has been involved in an accident. Check faults that it may have had prior to sale
Check the warranty offered for the car. What does it cover?
Check for signs of a respray, touch-up, rust or other damage
Check the price of the car (You may find it helpful to buy a used-car price guide; available from most newsagents)
Handy hints

It is best to buy from a reputable trader with the backing of a trade association
If you buy privately, you need to be extra careful and remember you have fewer legal rights. Keep a copy of the advertisement and any correspondence between you and the seller
Have the car checked by an independent motor mechanic
Go for a test drive
Make sure you can afford the asking price
Don't forget the running costs - how much does it cost to insure and think about the servicing, road tax and petrol
If you buy, make sure you obtain a receipt
A buyer's checklist

Make:

Model:

Registration No:

Mileage Recorded:

Asking Price:

Name of Seller:

Address:

Identity checked:

Ask

Are you the owner of the car?
May I see the log book? (check that the name matches that of the seller)
If older than 3 years, is there a current test certificate (check expiry date)
Why are you selling?
Have you had the car regularly serviced?
May I see the records?
Is there a warranty/guarantee?
Check

There really is no alternative to getting an expert to check the car; it may save you money in the long run. If you are unable to, then you can check:

The Bodywork
Do all the panels line up? Use a magnet to detect any filler which may be hiding damaged bodywork or rust.

The Tyres
Is there uneven wear or damage to the rim?

The Engine Number
Is it the same as that on the registration document?

The Shock Absorbers
Press down on each corner. It should bounce once, then hold still

www.bargain-motors.com

Buying a used car

The internet is a very valuable tool in regards to resources for you to use when considering buying a used car. You might have already got a specific make and model in mind, but then you might not have had the chance to consider the different types of vehicle. You also need to be aware of safety measures you need to take when buying a used car, particularly if buying from a private dealer. Along with this,thought has to be given to the financing of the car and how much it would cost to insure it. All of this information can easily and quickly be found by going online.
Unless you have the luxury of a pocket full of spare cash then you are going to need to take a loan to cover the cost of the car. If buying a used car privately then almost certainly you will have to take the loan yourself with a lender. Buying from a dealership and you will be offered finance; however it is not always the cheapest way of borrowing to pay for the car. You still could be better off looking for the loan yourself and then going with the cash in hand to the dealership.
Before looking for the loan you should find out on average how much the model you have decided on costs. Make use of a used car search tool which can be tailored right down to the age of the car and even color and you will be presented with a range of prices on average. You can then tell if the car is within your budget before going any further.
The next step should be finding out how much you could expect to pay to insure and put the car on the road. Again comparing quotes with a specialist that allows you to search with many insurance brokers on the same page is the easiest way to go. It can be easy to snap up a bargain car and then go on to find after the deal has gone through that the insurance is sky high, so do not make this mistake.
Once you have chosen the model and checked it is within your budget, have checked insurance costs and figured out which type of finance is the best option then you can go about looking for the car. The easiest way to do this is online. A search engine will list cars with dealers and private buyers based on your criteria. Narrow down your search a few cars that match your needs and then find the contact information.
When going to look over the used car of your choice always be sure that you meet the seller at their residence rather than meeting them somewhere. You should also have their landline number not just mobile and of course they should be able to show you the relevant paperwork for the car. Make sure you take your time going over the car both the exterior and interior and if the car is a convertible make sure you see the roof retract. Use the information gained from the internet when inspecting every inch of the car. The test drive should consist of freeways and town streets so that you can get a good idea of the handling when travelling at different speeds and on different surfaces.
david burton is the owner of http://www.bargain-motors.com/